Mister Freedom cooperates with the Japanese denim experts from Sugar Cane Co. for a complete collection (MFSC), which is made in the US and Japan. Each collection is based on fictional characters with historical backgrounds. The result is historically plausible garments which never previously existed.
Californian Lot. 44
The Californian Lot. 44 is the sequel to the Lot. 54 model, and the two are similar in many aspects; the fit for example is the same as the Marlon-Brando-in-The-Wild-Ones-inspired 1950′s fit, but in terms of detail, there are a few minor differences.
The most striking difference between Lot 44 and its predecessor is the back cinch. In addition, Lot 44 had a slightly higher waist and a new fabric for the pocket bags that is made of striped 100% cotton that is also used as reinforcement of the back pockets, which of course also have been reinforced with concealed rivets and bartacks. The jeans are manufactured in the USA and sewn with a 100% cotton thread, which you often find on jeans from the 50s.
The Mister Freedom Ranch Blouse is a tribute to one of the pioneers among denim jackets: the Levi’s 506XX Type 1. The jacket is not an attempt at reinventing the wheel; Mister Freedom simply offer a 2011-version of one of the most classic denim jackets ever produced.
Highlights of the details include the rounded 1930′s-style club collar, two slanted front pockets, reinforced at the corners with unmarked flat-top studs and the Mister Freedom M-signature stitch, oxidized buttons and back cinch with selvage, like on the jeans. All rivets have been reinforced in the old-fashioned way with leather on the back, which prevents the edges from destroying the fabric.
35 different denims
The two piece have been produced in no less than 35 different fabrics (!), each of which is handpicked by Mister Freedom from various denim warehouses through the years. However, the fabric “xuv” that Norse Store has received, is not to be found on the chart they have provided.
Therefore, I wrote to Mister Freedom to hear how that could be and got the following reply:
“It [the xuv] is the same denim used for the original Californians (Lot 54) which have an 8-10% shrinkage. It was decided to do this for the wholesale accounts because we are very familiar with the fabric as opposed to the can of worms we leashed upon ourselves with this assorted biz of denim.”
The fabric is a US-produced non-sanforized 12 oz. Cone Mills denim of 100% cotton, which basically means classic shrink-to-fit. Mister Freedom recommend washing in cold water for minimal shrinkage and to preserve the deep indigo color. Mister Freedom’s washing procedure is similar to the one we describe in the post ‘Guide to dry denim‘.