Timmy Persson
Making Your Jeans: The Pattern

In this article, Swedish denim enthusiast Timmy Persson will take you through eleven basic steps of making the pattern for jeans. As Timmy already has a basic pattern he is going to show you how to do it on a smaller scale at first. Timmy is blogging on his Blue Thimble Denim blog, and besides sewing his own jeans he is soon doing an internship with Indigofera. Please welcome the latest addition to the Denimhunters.

Step 1:

The first thing you do is to put on your favorite pair of jeans, mark the center front of the waistband, the thickest area of your bum, and thigh, the knee, the lower leg, and the hem. Then you measure the length between all the areas and also the width on the marks from seam to seam and both on the front and the back.

Step 2:

When all the measurements are done it’s time to start with the pattern. You start by adding all the measures of the length to get the outer seam length. Since I’m going to use a selvage fabric I want the outer seam to be totally straight. Therefore, I start out by doing two straight lines in the same length as the total amount of all the length points. Now you have the start of the front and the back.

You place the marking points on to both of the lines. You draw out the width lines on the marking spots, the left line is your front side and the right line is your back. It should look something like this:

Then it’s time to shape the pant and you just follow the markings that you have put out, even though it’s a little tricky to get the right shape on the back rise and the crouch seam. A good thing to do is to make a pair of “shorts” without details just to see if you’re on the right track with the pattern.

When you feel that the fitting is right it’s time to reshape it if you would like to have a tighter or wider fit, and also to adjust the height of the waist and to put out all the details on to your pattern. I did this and in the following pictures I will show you how.

My basic pattern is a quite narrow fit and the model that I’m going to make is inspired of the early twenties century. Back then jeans were a little baggier and more comfortable. So I need to reshape it and do the crouch seam a bit longer and lift the waist.

Step 3:

Here I have increased the crouch seam on the back piece.

Step 4:

Then I start shaping of the waistband; I want it to be 3.5 cm, so I make some marks and then I just have to follow them.

Step 5: 

After that I shape of the front pocket, the fly, pocket bag, and also the watch pocket.

Step 6:

On the back, I put out my yoke together with the size and position of the back pocket; the shaping of the back pocket I leave till later.

Step 7:

Now it’s time to re-draw the details on to a new silk paper, so I can cut them out later. For the pocket bag and the fly you double fold the paper before you cut it out like this.

Step 8:

When you do your waistband you need to have a smooth transition from the back piece to the front piece, and when you re-draw it, you put them together.

Step 9:

Here I’m doing the shaping of the back pocket. I choose a rounder look of it for this pair.

Step 10:

When all the pieces are cutout its time to put them on to a harder piece of paper so when it’s time to draw the pattern on to the fabric it will be more durable. It’s also time to do the seam allowance.

Step 11:

The seam distance that I use almost everywhere is 1 cm; I want a more narrow selvage edge so there I use 0,7cm; on the places where I will be using a lap seam I use 1,3cm; and for the hem I use 3 cm.

And that’s it… almost. You can read more about this Timmy’s projects here or follow him on Facebook. Also, you might want to visit Timmy’s girlfriend’s blog.

Introduction by Thomas Bojer. Article written by Timmy Persson.