20120816 8dc609 Levis Big V Jackets: Putting the Value in VintageA few weeks back, our newest member of the Denimhunters team posted an article about how to spot vintage Levi’s denim jackets. This led to few comments and questions, and especially William (Bill) Holt’s 884-word contribution inspired us. That’s why we asked Bill to give us his opinion on the matter, and here it is.

‘Value’ is a subjective term, as it’s primarily determined by public perception and the demand which that perception generates. I’m no expert, but I confidently believe that this element of ‘perceived value’ explains — at least in part — why modern LVC reproductions can be front-loaded into the marketplace at absurdly inflated prices: essentially, people who have more money than they do common sense are either desperately living on the cusp of fashion or they’re banking on already expensive LVC garments to escalate in worth over the long term – to basically mature as investments. This is why I have a resistance to new ‘vintage’ articles from Levi Strauss, even though I have to say that they’re temptingly cool-looking.

20110929 0dd899 Levis Big V Jackets: Putting the Value in VintageI would never pay more for a Levi’s Vintage Collection reproduction than I would for a true period piece of Levi’s clothing. A jacket that was made in 1967 has a life story behind it, even if the tale might never be fully known. That mystery alone is priceless. A $350 jacket made to replicate one that was actually crafted over four decades ago will eventually be accompanied by its own life story. However, that story will have to include the uncomfortable truth that the jacket was the progeny of a romance with genuine vintage apparel that became prostituted for mere monetary gain. LVC reproductions are the bastard children of perceived value. They just happen to be lovely little bastards.

IMG 5210 640x480 Levis Big V Jackets: Putting the Value in VintageIn my admittedly not-so-humble opinion, an iconic decades-old Levi’s Big ‘E’ jacket that garners a price of $300 is immeasurably more valuable than a recent LVC remake which might command a price of $350. Why? Because it modestly became a coveted, classic piece of art through natural exposure — or perhaps more fittingly, through its lack of exposure — over time. It’s presence didn’t result from the type of presumably calculated, crass intent which birthed the Levi’s Vintage Collection.

6880852080 409811c019 b 640x480 Levis Big V Jackets: Putting the Value in Vintage

Honestly, I harbor no ill will against LVC products. They ARE ‘real’ Levi’s, but age alone will lend them a purist appeal similar to that which a 1960′s ‘E’ jacket boasts today. For me, they simply need to earn their vintage value. Attaining that distinction requires the patient investment of time rather than the ready exchange of a few hundred bucks. A genuinely vintage item is one which has paid its dues in a measure of years to earn its real character.

Then again, what do I know? I wasn’t made until 1964.

Words: William Holt.

  • CWE

    Super interesting thoughts on ‘genuity’.

    As I see this matter it’s all about quality. Perceived quality. Quality has no way of being measured or put into schemes. Here’s a good example:
    In the book ‘Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance’ by Robert Pirsig, the author offers a solution to his friends problem. They each ride motorcycles together and they’re both ‘petrolheads’ in their own ways. the author drives an old motorcycle, and his friend drives a new BMW. The author are able to fix his bike whenever something is wrong. He does this by thinking of the problem as a loss of value to his bike since he can’t ride it. So when ever he has fixed this the quality and value of the motorcycle experince rise again.
    His friend though is hyper focused on ‘genuiness’ as a measure of quality. So when his clamps for his handlebar risers no longer can be tighten any further, and therefore causes his handlebars to be loose, the author fixes this by adding a piece of sheet metal so that the clamp is filled out again.
    As he has fixed the problem, the friend, who has troubles fixing these small problems that occur to any motorcycle owner, is very happy to hear that the author fixed it using original BMW spare parts. The truth is that the author had only cut up a used soda can, and removed the paint on is making it shine. When the friend is told this, he is furious and demand that he would prefer the handlebars loose then!!

    The same can be said about denim. Some people tend to think of quality as something that has a certain history, origin and brand value to it. They think that when these parameters reach a certain level of genuity it causes a higher level of quality than other very similar denim products. The denim product become more denim, than denim in general.The result is this perceived quality.

    Related to this it is funny to think about that denimproducts used to be something cheap and everyday-like. This is not a parameter to the denimhead. Instead the ‘simple’ and ‘cheap’ pret a porter lines like supermarket 501′s are frowned upon. But the replicas that we/they wear are super expensive, cause of the genuity they hold… Hmmmm.

    As I bought my 501 Shrink to fit’ I was sad when I realised they were made in Turkey. They lost a bit of the genuity that I had thought they would contain. I am very happy with them. But as a frequent reader of denimheadrelatedstuff I am not, when I wear them, within the ‘group’. Todays society makes us feel the urge for being a part of the ‘group’. Being accepted for knowing about the history and the semiotics of the culture. That’s why this quality, genuity and value circle is so freaking interesting!!!!

    Please keep up the good work making this the best denimblog-mag, and from tim eto time let’s continue discussing being denimheads as a result of the post modern society we are surrounded by.

  • Jan den Hartogh

    Thanks for your article and comment on my post Bill.
    Indeed: value is subjective!
    The value for me is that I love it anytime I wear it ;-)
    Merry Christmas and a ‘blue’ and healthy 2013

  • http://www.misterfreedom.com Christophe Loiron

    On a broader note, when reading subjective opinions about specific garments retail prices, I seldom see the COST of manufacturing being considered. New clothes ‘should’ be priced at retail level according to how much they cost to MAKE (R&D + fabric milling + cut-sew + normal mark-up so that the company can pay fair wages to all involved, and stay in business.)
    Any other factor is irrelevant. Many honest companies function on this equation.
    In order to publicly judge a company’s retail prices, one has to be well aware of that Industry manufacturing process and of the ‘Cost of Goods’.
    Christophe Loiron

  • Andrew Sherwell

    Thread of the year. Excellent thoughts, thanks Chaps.

  • Ian

    If someone wants a pair of jeans or a jacket which has the same quality denim and design features of those made 40+ years ago without the modern considerations for high profit huge volume production aren’t lvc products ideal? They can give it its own story. In an ideal world levis would continue to keep making no compromise quality products which were traditional but not copies of the original designs in addition to the vintage reproductions. If your wearing a 1960s jacket aren’t you just wearing someone else’s story? Unless of course you had it yourself from new.