Over the past couple of seasons, the core Wrangler programme has moved into the spotlight with the introduction of premium fabrics and classic designs otherwise reserved for the Blue Bell brand. For the spring of 2013, Wrangler makes the invention of the broken twill denim, one company’s biggest achievements, the star of the show and presents it in a wide variety of contemporary cuts and washes. Developed by John Neil Walker as a way to combat the twisting effect characteristic of regular twill denim, which at the time considered a fault, the new denim was first used by Wrangler in 1964. Looking to get that original workwear feeling, we took some of the products to the old industrial harbour of Copenhagen to do a report of the collection.
Traditionally, twill is woven either to the right hand or the left hand, which will eventually twist itself after washing due to the tension of the weave. As a result you often have the outseam twist to the front or back of the leg. With broken twill you avoid this “problem.” Instead of the twill running left or right, broken twill contains no distinct direction and instead alternates right and left, which resembles an almost random zig-zag pattern.
As for any fashion producer today, sustainability has become a major issue for Wrangler. The single most polluting step in jeans production is the finishing process and by reducing the use energy, water and chemicals when create their authentic-looking Wrangler is taking their toll. Focusing mainly on a rinsed, an authentic mid used and a dark used wash, these cleaner and greener vintage finishes of the ’Eco treated denim’ dominate the spring collection, demonstrating what achievable with reduced use of energy, water and chemicals to give sophisticated and classic looks to the signature broken twill.
Broken twill is durable, comfortable and full of character with an appealing hand feel and natural stretch. Even with a 100% cotton fabric the unique construction allows for movement. Also, the surface of broken twill denims don’t look like any ordinary twill. In its raw state, the fabric has a clean, compact surface with no visible grain. When washed the denim opens to show its depth and gives it a distinct character that you don’t find with right hand or left hand twills.