Waist

This can be the trickiest. You may have noticed that it is very seldom that the waist size listed on the label and your actual waist size match up. In most cases the waist size listed is smaller than the measurement around your waist in reality. This is not an exercise in vanity that the jeans manufacturers grant us; rather the tag size refers to the “true waist”, so the measurement around the naval. Given that the waist is a cone shape, getting larger the further down you go, the more modern, low rise jeans are further from the size on the tag.

With your existing pair, pull the waistband so they lay flat in order to measure from centre of back (back belt loop) to front closure (top button) and measure across. Multiply by two.

Thigh

A pair of jeans that fits a sinewy six foot bike messenger is not likely to fit a six foot rugby player. Even if they have similar waists the thigh area would make all the difference when it comes to the comfort and ease of movement when wearing the jeans. At the crotch, lay the jeans flat and make sure that any back rise fabric is to the left of the centre seam and measure the total width perpendicular to the leg. Multiply by two.

Knee

Similar to the method in which you measure the thigh however this time measure 14 inches (35 cm) from the crotch. Note: if you are particularly tall or short then take this into account when measuring down from the crotch. Multiply by two.

Leg Opening or Hem Line

This is where your foot comes out. It is simply measured seam to seam directly across the leg opening. Multiply by two.

Rise

As mentioned above the more modern jeans with a lower rise have waist sizes further away from the size on the tag. The rise determines where the jeans will sit on your hips. Older style jeans normally had much higher rises than you see on modern jeans. Something to keep in mind if you are looking for a particular style or fit.

The waist of jeans are seldom a straight band, they are higher in the back than in the front. It is created this way so the jeans sit on the body more comfortably. You will sometimes see the “front rise” and the “back rise” mentioned.

• The front rise is the more common measurement given as it is more likely to determine the comfort of the jeans. It is measured from the crotch to the waistband just above the button.
• The back rise is measured from the crotch all the way to the top of the waistband at the back.
• The front rise will always be smaller than the back rise.

Inseam or inside leg

You will find that a lot of the high end jeans manufacturers will only do one leg length, normally overly long. This is to allow for the shrinkage found in raw, unsanforized denim and also to cater for the widest variety of leg lengths. It is expected that you will either cuff your jeans to have them hemmed. This is also a touch of historical accuracy; the earliest jeans being only manufactured in one length meaning cheaper production costs and less waste. However, nowadays you will find many of the larger jeans manufacturers (and maybe some of the smaller ones) catering for a wide variety of leg lengths. Also, many of the small manufacturers offer hemming services with traditional Union Special chain stitch hemming machines.

The inseam is the most common measurement. It is measured from the crotch, down the inner seam of the jean leg to the hem.

Out seam

Less common than the inseam the outer seam is measured from the top of the waistband, down the outer seam of the jean leg to the hem.

Read more about how the guys at Iron Heart use these measurement here.

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Matt Wilson

A Scotsman living in Berlin, Matt Wilson works as a Digital Artist at a production company. He got into denim by chance when he came across an Evisu denim jacket at the local TK Maxx outlet. The texture and the deep indigo colour set it apart from all the junk, and soon Matt was sucked in by the denim community. He doesn’t collect anything, but favours archetype products; designs that have stood the test of time and have remained essentially unchanged since their inception.

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The L.L.Bean Signature Jeans (pictured throughout this article) are part of the brand’s Signature line, which centres on updated classics and modern fits. The jeans are made from 12.75 oz. denim, which is considered a mid-weight denim, and is a slim, straight cut, lowered rise jean with a button fly. The raw jeans are made from unsanforized denim produced in Mexico, as are the jeans themselves. Apart from the raws, pictured here, they also come in a dark indigo version. There! Those are the cold (and perhaps boring) facts of the L.L.Bean Signature Five-Pocket Jeans. As I believe is evident from the images, the jeans themselves are far from boring or second-grade. Especially if you consider the price tag.

Fit-wise these jeans are slim and in many ways can be compared to the Lee 101S (this writer’s personal favourites), although the Bean jeans are a bit wider at the leg opening (straight cut) and the denim is not selvage. Since I got these jeans, a couple of months ago, I have been wearing them regularly and some quite distinct wear-marks are already starting to show. So far, my L.L.Beans seem to be hinting at the notion that non-selvage jeans can break in just as nicely as selvage ones. I hope to be able to prove this point to you after they have truly been broken in. And being that they are unsanforized I am curious about how much shrinkage will occur after the first soak.

Interview with Kathy Whitney, L.L.Bean Senior PR Representative

When you mention L.L.Bean the first thing that comes to mind to most people is probably the Bean boots, or the Maine hunting shoes, as I have also heard them called. What does this particular boot mean to you as a company?

“The boot launched our company, and continues to be our most iconic product. The Maine Hunting Shoe (now expanded to include L.L.Bean Boots) represents the best of our company’s values and heritage – quality craftsmanship, honesty and dry feet are the foundation of L.L.Bean. One-hundred years after the company was founded upon this single product, we still handcraft L.L.Bean Boots one pair at a time right here at our factories in Maine, as we have since 1912. Over the years, new linings, openings, and boot heights have given customers plenty of choices. Most recently, shearling lining and new colors offer even more options.”

Years ago, I saw the Bean boots mentioned in an urban fashion magazine as the fashionable alternative to those “tired old Timbs” (Timberlands), as I believe they put it. Are you aware of the fact that some people regard your hunting boots as a fashion item and how do you feel about that?

“L.L.Bean does not follow fashion trends, but market trends are clearly finding us as we’ve seen Bean Boot sales increase 101% since 2009. This isn’t the first time, fashion finds us, however. For example, in 1975 the Bean Boot was cited by the fashion press in its coverage of L.L.Bean and the Coty Award. In 1995, for a mere $650, the Neiman Marcus’ August fashion catalog featured a pair of green rubber and tan calfskin lace-up booties bearing an indisputable similarity to the Bean Boot—but with the added features of a pointed toe and a three-inch spiked heel. During his runway show at the February 2002 Fashion Week, highly-acclaimed New York fashion designer John Bartlett outfitted the feet of his entire team of male models with 16” Bean Boots.”

“The fact that our boots continue to appeal to both the serious outdoorsman and the more fashionable urban commuter is a testament to the innovation that drove the design in the first place, as well as their enduring function, value and of course, our legendary guarantee. We hear from customers frequently that they are still wearing the original pair they purchased long ago. While we’ve recently seen unprecedented sales in new L.L.Bean Boots, we continue to rebuild customers’ old favorites by attaching new bottoms to their broken-in leather tops. Many of the boots are passed between generations as treasured keepsakes of the family’s love of the outdoors.”

In 2010 you launched the L.L.Bean Signature line. What are the thoughts behind that?

“L.L.Bean Signature launched as a response to our customers’ desire for a modern take on American classics, with updated styling and fit offering the same value and quality L.L.Bean has long been famous for. L.L.Bean Signature’s goal is to bring contemporary, versatile wardrobe options to fit our younger customer’s lifestyle—seven days of the week. L.L.Bean Signature takes the best of Bean and re-interprets it in a fresh new way, sometimes drawing from our archives and core line for inspiration.”

About a year ago (in 2012), to celebrate your 100th anniversary, L.L.Bean had the limited number of 1912 pairs of selvage jeans produced at the famed Cone Denim White Oak Plant of Greensboro, North Carolina (the L.L.Bean Selvedge Denim). Can you tell me what the thoughts behind this production were? I mean, why did you include a pair of jeans to mark this great occasion?

“As you know, we created many different 100th anniversary products from canoes and fly rods, to graphic tees, totes and duck calls to celebrate our company’s milestone event. Since jeans are a staple in a man’s wardrobe and have always been a part of L.L.Bean’s history, we thought it would be appropriate to partner with another great American company to create a limited number of 1912 Selvage jeans. This was a one-time offering and we don’t have any plans at this time to introduce another selvage jean.”

It is no secret that we, here at Denimhunters, are great admirers of traditional craftsmanship and quality products. At the same time we cannot disregard the fashion aspects of quality products. With your Signature line and production of selvage jeans it seems you are embracing this too. But is the fashion appeal of your products something you fear will change L.L.Bean as we know it?

“L.L.Bean’s commitment to innovation, function, quality, and value is as enduring as our Bean Boot, and is not something we plan to change anytime in the future.”

Visit L.L.Bean Signature online and remember that US and Canadian customers get free shipping.

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Kasper Broue Meinertz

Contributing editor at Denimhunters

A natural curiosity and the search for the finest make and fit led Kasper to writing about denim - he has now realized that the search is never ending. With a Master’s Degree in English and Media Studies, Kasper works as a Digital Solution Manager in his hometown of Copenhagen, Denmark. Kasper hopes to shed light on how denim is evolving down some of the roads less travelled, in various urban subcultures. His favourite brand and fit is his Lee 101S.

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We started at the “Ketelhuis”, a building formerly used by Philips back in the day on the Strijp-S area just outside the city centre of Eindhoven. From there we were traveling for 2 hours along old buildings, factories, parks and through the city centre we went back to finish with a superb BBQ. No rush, no worries. Just enjoying the sunny weather and having a great time all together.

When we came back at “Het Ketelhuis” a surprise was waiting for us. Besides the BBQ and cold drinks we were treated with a Wet Plate Photo shoot of all the people who were there during the ride.

While the sun was setting behind the buildings of the Strijp-S area, we enjoyed some good music, cold drinks and chatted about this first edition of a successful Denim Run in Eindhoven.

For more info about this event and the community check Denim Run’s Facebook page. Also, have a look at this video from the event made by The Stranded Sailors.

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Michael van Hal

Contributing Photographer at Denimhunters

Michael was born and raised in the southern region of the Netherlands. Back in 2004, chance led him into the retail side of the denim business and since then he has been hooked on indigo. Michael is a keen photographer with no less than two educations relating to photography under his belt and he hopes to make himself a career in this business. Along with his collection of denim books and magazines he also has stacks of sneakers and leather shoes at home. Michael’s favourite brand is Levi's Vintage Clothing and he has a hard time deciding between Tellason’s Ladbroke Grove and the 1954 501ZXX as to his favourite fit, yet it’s his Naked & Famous x Tenue de Nîmes and Left Vs. Right Evisu jeans that he’s most proud of.

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Clothing is no exception; many conspicuous retailers have achieved worldwide success thanks in no small part to rock-bottom prices and cheap, efficient production. But unknown to the general public, there are a small number of Japanese companies dedicated to using fabrics, machines, and techniques – no matter what the cost in time and labor – that were long ago declared obsolete by companies only interested in the bottom line.

One of those companies is The Flat Head. Headquartered in a residential neighborhood of Nagano’s suburbs, the company is far removed from the chaotic pace of life in Tokyo or Osaka, where most Japanese casual brands are based. This relaxed, mountainous environment is where founder Masayoshi Kobayashi achieved his American dream of crafting jeans with vintage detailing, yet suited to contemporary fashion.

A brand born of Mr. Kobayashi’s love of the 1950s, when American culture arguably reached its zenith, The Flat Head’s philosophy couldn’t be more at odds with the prevailing mindset of most brands and retailers. According to The Flat Head, one of their products – such as a pair of 3005 jeans – has only half of its value when new. As the jeans are worn over time and develop creasing patterns and fades unique to the wear and washing habits of the owner, the value increases – and the jeans reach their maximum value when fully worn out, after years of wear. This is quite different compared to most things we buy, which quickly lose their value and attractiveness over time.  Few would argue that a cell phone covered in six years’ of dings and scrapes would be superior in any way to a new smart phone.

Unlike most brands which encourage consumers to buy a lot and buy often, The Flat Head takes a more judicious approach in marketing their high-priced casual clothing. While large brands celebrate their customers buying a whole stack of jeans, The Flat Head wants their customers to keep using the same products for a long time. Their sister brand R.J.B., for example, doesn’t allow for online sales of their products. This seems like a loss of potential profits, but they insist on their customers experiencing the intricacies of their garments in person.

It’s a potentially risky strategy, but it has paid off – The Flat Head is one of the most successful Japanese brands making vintage-inspired clothing, and is rapidly gaining attention outside of Japan, not only for their business model but for the design, materials, and perhaps most importantly, the aging properties of their clothes. And their reputation outside of Japan is almost completely due to word-of-mouth and online communities of denim enthusiasts.

The Flat Head’s clothes are produced in small quantities, completely within Japan. They cut the patterns in-house, work with mills to make completely original fabrics found nowhere else, and employ small house-factories of highly-experienced workers to cut and sew their jeans with rare machinery. This process is difficult and time-consuming, but allows the brand to achieve a level of character and quality in their products that’s not found in mass-produced clothing.

The white and green shirt’s fabric is made on a dobby loom, which creates the distinct textured contrast threads, while the blue chambray shirt is meticulously embroidered in indigo thread. Superficially similar patterns would be easy to print, but the intricacies in texture and stitching can only be accomplished through vintage looms and sewing machines.

What’s all the more unique is how everything they make, not just jeans, is designed with aging properties in mind. T-shirts are printed so that the graphic cracks and changes over time; flannel fabrics develop texture and softness with wear and washing; leather jackets use a complex coloring process that brings out a secondary color beneath the surface, as the leather gains scratches and scrapes with use; saddle and harness leather turn from pale white to a rich, golden brown color over time.

While one can easily applaud Flat Head for their stylish, contemporary interpretation of vintage designs, or the distinctive fade of their denim, or attention to details that many people never consider from their clothes, what’s most striking is simply the honesty behind the brand. They aren’t looking to make a quick profit, or rapidly expand at any cost; instead, the brand grows at a deliberate pace and focuses on building relationships and trust with their retailers and customers.

The Flat Head is a brand of applied idealism, where no expense is spared in pursuing quality, character, and the art of creation. While we might live in a culture of careless consumerism, The Flat Head offers a glimpse at a better way of doing things. And by preserving traditional means of manufacture, The Flat Head doesn’t just cater to an older, nostalgic clientele: they give discerning young people the opportunity to experience the values and fastidiousness of a bygone era – all in the context of clothing that changes and grows according to the wearer’s lifestyle, which the wearer can enjoy for many years to come.

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Kyle Robinson

Kyle Robinson is an American who lives and works in Japan. Though his initial interest in Japan was sparked by alternative rock bands, several years later he was introduced to high-quality denim, which became his new obsession. He works for one of Japan’s most distinguished brands and also enjoys fiction writing.

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