JEANS ANATOMY

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Many of the features that have come to define blue jeans started as pragmatic solutions to the problems faced by wearers or manufacturers.

On this page, you’ll find answers to questions about the features and details of jeans as well as how they’re made.

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Defining features

Rivets – pieces of metal found at the pocket corners of jeans with the purpose of strengthening these stress point

Hidden rivets – rivets on the back pockets of jeans that are covered by denim fabric

Arcuates –  patterns of stitching on the back pockets of jeans, also known as back pocket signatures

Back cinch – a feature that can tighten the waistband of jeans

Bartack – stitches that reinforce stress points of jeans

Belt loops – features that help wearers keep a belt in place at the waistband of jeans

Coin pocket – a small pocket that’s half-tucked into the left front pocket of jeans

Suspender buttons –  buttons that are used to ‘anchor’ suspenders to jeans

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Cut and sew

Five-pocket jeans – the quintessential jean has two pockets on the back and three on the front

Chain stitch – a type of stitching with one continuous thread that is looped back on itself

Roping effect – the abrasion on jeans hems sewn with chain stitching

Fly – the front opening on jeans, either with buttons or a zipper

Yoke – the V-shaped section at the back of jeans that give them a curved seat

Anti-fit – jeans with the rise cut in a straight line (as opposed to a curve)

Pre-washing – industrial processes and abrasive techniques that imitate the fading on naturally worn-in raw denim

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Branding

Red tab – a small, red branding label with the name ‘Levi’s’ on it

Brand patch – a label found at the waistband of jeans above the right back pocket

Back pocket flasher – a removable tag, usually placed on the right back pocket of jeans

Levi’s XX – the name of the Levi’s jeans before they were named 501

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