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+20 Makers of Exceptionally Well-Made Men’s Selvedge Jeans that You Should Know
Those who hunt for denim share a common objective. Whether seasoned selvedge collectors or raw denim rookies, they’re all looking for the same thing: the absolute best pair of men’s selvedge jeans.
“Best” may be a subjective term, meaning different things to different people. Quality, though, is objective, and the signs of quality construction are unmistakable.
This list represents the crème de la crème of the selvedge world. We cover popular Japanese favourites, American heritage classics, and the best of Europe.
We’ve picked our favourite core fits that are in steady production. Price hasn’t entered into our considerations; the pairs listed below have been constructed with loving and expert hands from the best selvedge on the planet, and the prices reflect this.
With this masterlist as your guide, you’ll be one step closer to that “forever pair” that you’ll want to wear every single day, producing beautiful fades in the process.
Weirloom ‘First Edition’ (14.25 oz.)
After years of dreaming about making his own jeans, Thomas finally took the bullet between his teeth.
“Thomas just launched Weirloom with this pair that’s earned a spot on our Masterlist on its own merits,” says Bryan.
The selvedge denim comes from Candiani in Italy. It’s 14.25 oz. and made of regenerative cotton, which is grown with old-school farming practices that’re better for the soil and biodiversity.
The jeans are one-washed and easy to break in. But don’t worry, you’ll still get high-contrast fades—in fact, they’ll come quite quickly. The warp yarns are dyed with Candiani’s proprietary Indigo Juice technology, which keeps the dyestuff on the surface.
Thomas has partnered with a manufacturer in Portugal, who’s been making jeans (and baiscally nothing but jeans) for more than 40 years. This small-scale, second-generation jeans maker is located near Porto, the country’s textile-producing centre.
As you’d expect, these top-to-bottom European-made jeans also have all the details we look for, including a button fly, tucked loops, chain-stitch hem, and blind bartacks, just to mention the highlights.
Just 100 pairs of the ‘First Edition’ will be made, and they’re sold on pre-order (for only €180!).
Best of all, by pre-ordering a pair of Weirlooms, you’ll be helping support the work Thomas does behind the scenes to keep Denimhunters alive.
Iron Heart 634S (21 oz.)
Classics never die, and Iron Heart’s 21 oz. selvedge was born a classic. When the brand introduced the 634S as their flagship denim/cut in 2003, they turned the selvedge scene on its head, creating an arms race among makers to produce the best heavy yet wearable jeans.
The cut, based on the 1966 501, is an excellent introduction either to the brand or to the world of conspicuously well-made selvedge. We’re also big fans of the 555 (super slim), 666 (straight), 777 (slim tapered), and 888 (high-rise tapered).
Buy Iron Heart from these select retailers: Iron Heart International, Franklin & Poe (US), Division Road (US), Iron Shop Provisions (US), and Brooklyn Clothing (CA).
Samurai S710XX (19 oz.)
Samurai’s most popular pair has been a stalwart in the fade scene since its introduction in 2003. Fading is built into the brand’s ethos, with a strong focus on the “zen and beauty” of faded indigo.
Their 19 oz. silver-line Kiwami Selvedge enjoys a stellar reputation among denimheads for its ability to produce eye-popping contrast fades. For those looking for fast and sharp fades, these cut like a katana.
For slimmer Samurais, check out the 511 (slim tapered), the 004 (slim tapered) or the 520 (regular tapered).
You can buy Samurai from all of these retailers: Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Blue in Green (US), Redcast Heritage (ES), and Corlection (AU).
Big John Rare 009 (15.5 oz.)
One of the most slept-on brands in the selvedge scene, Big John were the first to import rolls of American selvedge into Japan, the first to mill selvedge in Japan, and the first to engineer slub yarns.
They introduced their RARE selvedge in 1980 and, more than 40 years later, the indigo-dyed deerskin RARE patch remains a badge of honour in the scene.
If you want to try something heavy duty, try their 23 oz. Tough Jeans, and for a more generous fit, try the RARE 008.
Benzak BDD-006 Heavy Slub (16 oz.)
The pride of Amsterdam, Benzak have made a name for themselves by elegantly fusing European tailoring and Japanese denims.
Felled inseams, tucked belt loops, and Benzak’s unique sixth pocket (hidden below the waistband on the left side) all mark this pair as a cut above the rest. Nudge this denim along with a few months of steady wear and you’ll see why fans of slubby denim can’t get enough of the stuff.
For more ample thighs, try the BDD-711 (regular tapered) or the B-03 (regular tapered).
SOSO Ghost Indigo (20 oz.)
The Swedish made-to-measure denim brand has been looking for a signature fabric worthy of the name for years, and they’ve finally found it in this 20 oz. selvedge made from Australian cotton. With massive fade potential and nearly unlimited customisation options, this could be your next forever pair.
SOSO have also introduced a new signature arcuate that really helps their pairs stand out and stand on their own two feet. A worthy addition for selvedge lovers and fade fanatics.
SOSO have a wide range of denims to pick from, including fan favourites like the 33 oz. Breaker of Legs and the 23 oz. Broken Twill.
Brave Star True Straight Sumo IV (25 oz.)
Brave Star makes a ton of great pairs that combine rugged style and value. At the top of their range, they use a super-heavyweight selvedge that has off-the-charts fade potential. This is the denim worn by the champion of Year Three of the Indigo iInvitational (the first winner from the West, and the first American-made pair to take the top spot).
Brave Star prides themselves on making unfussy pairs that crave a good kicking. You’ll need to lean into these to bring out their best, though.
If you’re looking for something a little easier to break in, check out Brave Star’s 21.5 oz. LHT Gauntlet or their even-lighter 16.5 oz. Blue Blood.
Oni 246ZR Secret Denim (20 oz.)
It’s no secret why Oishi-san, the media-shy man behind Oni Denim, would want to keep the details of his formula for this denim under wraps. It’s spawned dozens of imitators, but nobody has been able to fully recreate the magic of Oni’s flagship denim.
A vibrant mixture of blue, green, and beige tones, the loose-weave selvedge has to be touched and worn to be fully appreciated. Sells out quickly and frequently, but this is one worth waiting for.
The 246 fit is an excellent choice, but you might find one of their other fits and denims to your liking. Redcast Heritage is constantly updating their Oni stock, so, before purchasing, take a look at the other Oni pairs they’ve got on hand.
You can find more Oni products from: Blue in Green (US) and Redcast Heritage (ES), Hinoya (JP)
Looking for the Biggest Bang for Your Buck?
Great selvedge isn’t necessarily expensive. If you’re looking for big value for your money, start here:
Pure Blue Japan XX-019 (14 oz.)
The titans of texture, Pure Blue Japan made their name with super-slubby denims that effectively created an entirely new product category. The vertical texture begins to emerge almost immediately, bringing the dyer’s and weaver’s artistry front and centre.
Even in diverse collections, PBJ pairs stand in a class of their own. A true-blue artisan maker.
For a slimmer cut, try the XX-013 (slim tapered).
You can find more Pure Blue Japan products at: Clutch Café (UK), Corlection (AU), Redcast Heritage (ES), Hinoya (JP), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Blue in Green (US)
Warehouse 1001XX (13.5 oz.)
Warehouse’s careful construction and vintage bona fides have made them legendary in the selvedge scene. In fact, if you ask the heads of Japanese brands who makes their favourite pair, most of them answer Warehouse without skipping a beat.
Their banner denim, made from a mixture of Tennessee, Texas, and Arizona cottons, is based on microscopic examination of ‘30s denim. It is as close as you can get to pre-50s selvedge without a time machine.
Sells out frequently. Have the retailer email you when they’re back in stock. For the closest thing to Warehouse, try Denime, which is now manufactured by the people at Warehouse.
Warehouse is sold at these excellent retailers: Clutch Café (UK), Sun House (JP), Corlection (AU), Lost & Found (CA), Hinoya (JP).
Full Count 1108 (15.5 oz.)
As one of the brands driving the late-90s selvedge explosion, Full Count emphasised wearability. They were the first to introduce Zimbabwe cotton, which leads to denim that fades to a buttery softness.
They’re not meant to be babied. Wash and wear them however you like, and leave them in a crumpled heap at the foot of your bed. As the fades begin to emerge, they’ll rise to the top of the order.
If you prefer a comfortable taper, try the 1110XX. If you’re looking for a wide and extremely comfortable fit, try their recently updated 0105.
You can buy Full Count from: Blue in Green (US) and Clutch Café (UK)
The Flat Head 3002 (14.5 oz.)
The Flat Head have risen to legendary status on the backs of their leather goods and flannels, but it was their vertically textured middleweight denim that started it all for the brand.
Their immediately recognisable and elegant arcuates are a beacon for savvy enthusiasts. They send out an unmissable signal, indicating that the wearer has searched high and low for a truly exceptional pair.
For more accommodating fits, try the 3004 (straight tapered), the 3005 (straight) and the 3009 (slim straight).
The Flat Head is sold at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Corlection (AU), and Franklin & Poe (US)
Real McCoy’s Lot 906 (14.75 oz.)
For the true-blue purists, Real McCoy’s opens a door into another world of stitch-perfect reproductions. Their 14.75 oz. right-hand-twill selvedge denim was engineered to reproduce vintage Cone Mills denim from the ‘60s, and the resulting pairs are, for our money, even better than the genuine article.
No collection is complete without at least one piece using this incredible denim. If you prefer your selvedge black, give their Black Lot 905 a look.
Real McCoy’s is available at these retailers: Lost & Found (CA) and Clutch Café (UK)
Momotaro 0405-SP (15.7 oz.)
Momotaro turned Kojima’s Jeans Street into an international destination for denimheads. They are best known for their sharp and modern cuts and their eye-catching Going to Battle stripes, which can be found in nearly every serious denim collection in one form or another.
Their 15.7 oz denim produces near-miraculous fades, and time will chip away at those GTB stripes, creating a living monument to Japanese craftsmanship and denim passion.
For a more relaxed fit, try the 0605. For a slimmer fit, try the 0306.
Momotaro is stocked by: Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Corlection (AU), Hinoya (JP), Division Road (US)
Studio D’Artisan SD-101 (15 oz.)
While Studio D’Artisan may not have been the first Japanese selvedge brand, they were the founding member of the Osaka 5, releasing their first pairs in 1979, kickstarting the modern-age Japanese selvedge explosion.
SDA’s 101, the brand’s interpretation of the classic wide-legged American five-pocket jean, with subtle influences from French workwear and designer denim, remains a core of their collection. It’s as good now as it ever was.
For a modern cut, try their SD-108 (relax tapered), or the SD-103 (tight straight).
You can buy Studio D’Artisan from these retailers: Redcast Heritage (ES), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Corlection (AU), Hinoya (JP), Division Road (US)
Mister Freedom California Lot 64 Outlaw (13 oz.)
With some of the most distinctive back pockets anywhere and classic American styling, Mister Freedom can rival even big hitters like Samurai and Iron Heart for customer loyalty. They get all the little things very right, and they bring a touch of California to everything they make.
Rabid fans snatch up pairs as fast as retailers can stock them, so you may need to wait a few months for a re-stock. Definitely worth the wait.
The lightweight Cone Mills selvedge will fade to pure vintage perfection if worn for long enough. If you want to look for something a little richer in tone, try the same pair made from Japanese selvedge.
You can buy Mister Freedom at: Franklin & Poe (US), Clutch Café (UK), Hinoya (JP)
Stevenson 737 Ventura (13 oz.)
The 13 oz. Kuroki denim might be middle of the road, but everything else about Stevenson pairs cuts against the grain. For those who appreciate difference-making details, Stevenson are in a class of their own.
Where most brands use arcuates to help their pairs stand out from the crowd, Stevenson uses curved back pockets, bold bar tacks, and hourglass belt loops. Even those who don’t know what they’re looking at will be able to tell at a glance that this pair is something special.
For more room through the thigh, try the Encitas (straight).
Stevenson is sold at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Corlection (AU), Franklin & Poe (US), Clutch Café (UK)
Rogue Territory SK (15 oz.)
A minimal and modern take on the classic five-pocket form, Rogue Territory’s SK (“skinny”) Cryptic Indigo uses a slubby Japanese-milled selvedge and a light detailing touch.
With one of our favourite subtle arcuates and an exceptionally modern cut, these are primed for the street. Perfect for hard-nosed individualists.
If you’re looking for something with a little more room, try the Stanton.
You can buy Rogue Territory here: Stag Provisions (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Redcast Heritage (ES)
Indigofera Nash 29 Handdip (13 oz.)
Our first entry from a maker outside of Japan, the Indigoferas can go cuff to cuff with just about any of their East Asian competitors. With a distinctly European bent to their styling, Indigofera cut slantwise across the scene with truly stand-out pieces that get noticed even in an exceptionally well-dressed crowd.
This denim takes indigo saturation to new heights, and the cut screams New West at the top of its lungs. A pair we’d love to see pushed to its breaking point.
We’re also big fans of their Clints. and the Nash in their heavier Shiroyama denim.
Indigofera is sold at these fine retailers: Franklin & Poe (US) and Brooklyn Clothing (CA)
Oldblue Heavyweight Beast (23.7 oz.)
The fade scene in Southeast Asia has produced some of the most stunning faded pairs seen anywhere in the world, and Indonesia’s Oldblue can take some of the credit for sparking some of this interest in Jakarta.
With their looping boot stitches on the back pockets and the coin pocket, Oldblue pairs list westward harder than Wranglers.
The denim may be Japanese, but these have more of the six-shooter to them than the katana. They sell out quickly, but Oldblue restock the pair regularly.
Freewheelers Vanishing West 601XX 1951 (14 oz.)
Like The Flat Head, Freewheelers are perhaps best known for their costly leather jackets. Collectors will subside on Spam and salteens for months to get their hands on a Freewheelers hide.
Their slightly less expensive jeans are a great entry point for the top-shelf brand, and you get a touch of their leather brilliance with arguably the best-looking patch in the game.
The silver-coated buttons with yellow enamel will chip and age like nothing else. For a wider fit, try the 1944-1945.
Naked & Famous Made in Japan (15-23 oz.)
Naked & Famous remains constantly relevant by refusing to rest on their laurels. Their collections range wider than anybody’s, and they have an almost preternatural ability to generate animated conversations in the scene.
Well-known for gimmicky (yet highly wearable) collectibles, the Canadian brand also has dependable and irresistible ranges for purists.
Their Made in Japan (MIJ) series have all the bells and whistles denimheads look for and a range of fits to suit nearly every body type. For something heavier, try their Elephants.
Naked & Famous is sold at: Franklin & Poe (US)
Blaumann Jeanshosen Schmaler (15 oz.)
This no-nonsense German brand produces high-octane pieces that leave a trail of exhaust and burnt rubber in their wake. Impeccable German tailoring and aerodynamic styling work together to create a lean and mean pair of jeans for throttle twisters.
It’s worth navigating their German-only website to get your hands on a pair. If they don’t ship to your location, send them an email and they’ll make the necessary arrangements.
For a true vintage cut, try the Gerade, and for a slimmer fit, try the Extra Schmale.
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