The Selvedge Masterlist: Our Ultimate Jeans Guide

Iron Heart 634S (21 oz.)

Classics never die, and Iron Heart’s 21 oz. selvedge was born a classic. When the brand introduced the 634S as their flagship denim/cut in 2003, they turned the selvedge scene on its head, creating an arms race among makers to produce the best heavy yet wearable jeans.

From their 14 oz. light middleweight to their 25 oz. super heavyweight, there isn’t a single weak link in the Iron Heart chain, but we’re particularly fond of their iconic 21 oz. selvedge. It simply doesn’t get any more essential than this.

The cut, based on the 1966 501, flatters just about everybody, but that doesn’t mean it’s necessarily the cut for you. We’re also big fans of the 555 (super slim), 666 (straight), 777 (slim tapered), and 888 (high-rise tapered).

For more details, check out our buying guide to Iron Heart jeans or …

Samurai S710XX (19 oz.)

Samurai’s most popular pair has been a pillar of the fade scene since its introduction in 2003. Fading is built into the brand’s ethos, with a strong and decades-long focus on the “zen and beauty” of faded indigo.

Their 19 oz. silver-line Kiwami Selvedge enjoys a stellar reputation among denimheads for its ability to produce eye-popping contrast fades. For those looking for fast and sharp fades, Kiwami Selvedge cuts like a katana.

For slimmer Samurais, check out the 511 (slim tapered), the 004 (slim tapered) or the 520 (regular tapered).

You can buy Samurai from these retailers: Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Blue in Green (US), and Redcast Heritage (ES).

Weirloom Jeans (14.25 oz.)

After years of dreaming about making his own jeans, Thomas finally took the bullet between his teeth, launching his own denim brand. Born fully formed, Weirloom has charged out of the gate with all the swagger of an established brand.

Earning a spot on this list on its own merits, Weiroom’s first release, the WL-001, is a fast-fading and easy-wearing middleweight. Entirely made in Europe, the pair has been engineered for quick and striking fades. A great choice for either new or experienced faders.

Big John Rare 009 (15.5 oz.)

One of the most slept-on brands in the selvedge scene, Big John were the first to import rolls of American selvedge into Japan, the first to mill selvedge in Japan, and the first to engineer slub yarns.

They introduced their RARE selvedge in 1980 and, more than 40 years later, they are still turning heads with this truly exceptional middleweight denim. Incredibly fast-fading. A fade journey that MUST be experienced by every denimhead at some point.

If you want to try something heavy duty, try their 23 oz. Tough Jeans, and for a more generous fit, try the RARE 008.

Oni Secret Denim (20 oz.)

This is one of the only entries on this list that we’re just including a denim and not a particular cut. Oni doesn’t have a bad cut in their line-up, and their legendary Secret Denim is so good that it doesn’t need a particular cut to shine at its brightest.

Secret Denim has spawned dozens of imitators, but nobody has been able to fully recreate the magic of Oni’s flagship selvedge. Its loose weave and mixture of earthy tones means this stuff looks and feels like nothing else on the market.

New versions (slight variations on the always-great original) are introduced with some regularity. When you see one in a cut you like, jump on it. It won’t be around long.

Secret Denim won’t produce the sharpest contrasts, but that’s not what it’s designed to do. This one’s all about the feel of the selvedge. For best results, wear daily and wash regularly. Virtually guaranteed to become the comfiest pair of heavy selvedge you’ll ever own.

You can find more Oni products from: Blue in Green (US), Redcast Heritage (ES), and Hinoya (JP)

Warehouse 1001XX (13.5 oz.)

Warehouse’s careful construction and vintage bona fides have made them legendary in the selvedge scene. When the heads of a number of Japanese selvedge brands were asked to name their favourite brand other than their own, most of them answered without hesitation: Warehouse.

Warehouse’s Banner Denim, made from a mixture of Tennessee, Texas, and Arizona cottons, is based on microscopic examination of ‘30s denim. It is as close as you can get to pre-50s selvedge without a time machine.

Warehouse pairs sell out frequently. Have the retailer email you when they’re back in stock. For the closest thing to Warehouse, try Denime, which is now manufactured by the people at Warehouse.

Warehouse is at Lost & Found (CA), Hinoya (JP), and Clutch Café (UK).

Tellason John Graham Mellor (16.5 oz.)

Tellason’s most popular pair, given the same full name at their birth as Joe Strummer of the Clash, is a testament to Tellason’s ability to craft a razor-sharp pair in the birthplace of iconic American denim, San Francisco. The denim is milled for the brand in Japan, but it’s cut and sewn at one of American’s few remaining denim factories.

Even if the made-in-America bona fides aren’t essential for you, this pair looks, feels, and fades good enough to earn its place on this list and then some.

We recommend this pair in the brand’s proprietary 16.5 oz. selvedge, milled exclusively for the brand by Kaihara Mills, but you might prefer it in either of its lighter-weight versions: 14.75 oz. and 12.5 oz.

We can also recommend a few of Tellason’s other great fits: the straight leg Ankara and the slim tapered Ladbroke Grove.

Brave Star Mojave (25 oz.)

Brave Star makes a ton of great pairs that combine rugged style and value. At the top of their range, you’ll find a super-heavyweight selvedge with off-the-charts fade potential. This is quite literally the selvedge of champions: this denim took home first place in Y3 of the Invitational and cracked the Top 10 in Y4.

The Mojave is their take on classic cowboy style. It’s a brilliant fusion of rock and roll and country style, and it’s been flying off the shelves since its introduction. The 25 oz. versions disappear extremely quickly, but they’re usually available in a range of other denims.

If western style doesn’t do it for you, try Brave Star’s other most-popular fits: the True Straight and the Slim Straight.

Learn more in our Brave Star buying guide or …

Pure Blue Japan XX-019 (14 oz.)

The titans of texture, Pure Blue Japan made their name with super-slubby denims that effectively created an entirely new product category. The vertical texture begins to emerge almost immediately, bringing the dyer’s and weaver’s artistry front and centre.

Even in diverse collections, PBJ pairs stand in a class of their own. A true-blue artisan maker.

For a slimmer cut, try the XX-013 (slim tapered).

You can buy Pure Blue Japan at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Hinoya (JP), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Blue in Green (US)

SOSO Ghost Indigo (20 oz.)

The Swedish made-to-measure denim brand has been looking for a signature fabric worthy of the name for years, and they’ve finally found it in this 20 oz. selvedge made from Australian cotton. With massive fade potential and nearly unlimited customisation options, this could be your next forever pair.

SOSO have also introduced a new signature arcuate that really helps their pairs stand out and stand on their own two feet. A worthy addition for selvedge lovers and fade fanatics.

The Ghost Indigo is also available in a heavier 25 oz. version. We can also recommend their 33 oz. Breaker of Legs and the 23 oz. Broken Twill.

New to SOSO? Check out our buying guide to the brand’s jeans or …

The Flat Head 3002 (14.5 oz.)

The Flat Head have risen to legendary status on the backs of their leather jackets and accessories, but it was their vertically textured middleweight denim that started it all for the brand back around the turn of the century.

Their immediately recognisable and elegant arcuates are a beacon for savvy enthusiasts. They send out an unmissable signal, indicating that the wearer has searched high and low for a truly exceptional pair with off-the-charts fade potential.

For more accommodating fits, try the 3004 (straight tapered), the 3005 (straight) and the 3009 (slim straight).

The Flat Head is sold at Redcast Heritage (ES) and Franklin & Poe (US)

Benzak BDD-006 Special #1 (14 oz.)

The pride of Amsterdam, Benzak have made a name for themselves by elegantly fusing European design and Japanese denims. Their premium made-in-Japan pairs blend the absolute best of both worlds.

Felled inseams, tucked belt loops, and Benzak’s unique sixth pocket (hidden below the waistband on the left side) all mark this pair as a cut above the rest. Nudge this made-in-Japan pair along with a few months of steady wear and you’ll see why Collect Mills selvedge is so prized among denimheads.

For more ample thighs, try the BDD-711 (regular tapered); for a higher rise, try the BDD-516 (high-rise slim).

Real McCoy’s Lot 906 (14.75 oz.)

For the true-blue purists, Real McCoy’s opens a door into another world of stitch-perfect reproductions. They are a destination brand for those who want the absolute-best versions of classic Americana and militaria.

Their 14.75 oz. right-hand-twill selvedge denim was engineered to reproduce vintage Cone Mills denim from the ‘60s. The pairs made from this denim are, for our money, even better than the genuine article.

If you prefer your selvedge black, Real McCoy’s Lot 966BK is among the best black pairs on the market.

Real McCoy’s is available at Lost & Found (CA) and Clutch Café (UK)

Full Count 1108 (15.5 oz.)

As one of the brands fuelling the late-90s selvedge explosion, Full Count made significant headway by emphasising wearability. They were the first to introduce Zimbabwe cotton, which leads to durable denim that fades to a buttery softness.

Full Count pairs aren’t meant to be babied. Wash and wear them however you like, and leave them in a crumpled heap at the foot of your bed. They’ll soon become the kind of beautifully faded and easy-wearing pair that both looks and feels incredible.

If you prefer a comfortable taper, try the 1110XX. If you’re looking for a wide and extremely comfortable fit, try their recently updated 0105.

You can buy Full Count from: Blue in Green (US) and Clutch Café (UK)

Momotaro 0405-V (15.7 oz.)

Momotaro turned Kojima’s Jeans Street into an international destination for denimheads. They are best known for their sharp and modern cuts and their eye-catching Going to Battle stripes, which are now found on only a few of their models.

The backbone of the brand is their proprietary 15.7 oz denim made from Zimbabwe cotton. It produces near-miraculous fades, making each of their long-lasting and well-worn pairs a living monument to Japanese craftsmanship and denim passion.

For a more relaxed fit, try the 0605. For a slimmer fit, try the 0306.

Momotaro is stocked at: Division Road (US), Hinoya (JP), Cultizm (DE), Brooklyn Clothing (CA)

Studio D’Artisan SD-101 (15 oz.)

While Studio D’Artisan may not have been the first Japanese selvedge brand, they were the founding member of the Osaka 5. With the release of their first pairs in 1979, they kickstarted the modern-age Japanese selvedge explosion.

SDA’s 101, the brand’s interpretation of the classic wide-legged American five-pocket jean, with subtle influences from French workwear and designer denim, remains a core of their collection. It’s as good now as it ever was.

For a modern cut, try their SD-108 (relax tapered), or the SD-103 (tight straight).

You can buy Studio D’Artisan from these retailers: Redcast Heritage (ES), Division Road (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Hinoya (JP)

Strike Gold 2105 (17 oz.)

A legend of the fade scene, this roughly textured and brown-wefted selvedge from Strike Gold produces rich and vibrant contrast fades that need to be seen to be believed. The rough yarns scrape against each other, flaking off indigo remarkably fast.

The real magic of the pair is in the brown weft, which helps produce this pair’s trademark dirty fades. Like the indigo, the brown fades away in time, but it makes the fade journey a truly remarkable and colourful one.

The 2105 is slung low and is quite slim through the thighs. For a more generous straight cut, try the Strike Gold 2103.

Mister Freedom California Lot 64 Outlaw (13 oz.)

With some of the most distinctive back pockets anywhere and classic American styling, Mister Freedom can rival even big hitters like Samurai and Iron Heart for customer loyalty. They get all the little things very right, and they bring a touch of California to everything they make.

Rabid fans snatch up pairs as fast as retailers can stock them, so you may need to wait a few months for a re-stock. Definitely worth the wait.

The lightweight Cone Mills selvedge will fade to pure vintage perfection if worn for long enough. If you want to look for something a little richer in tone, try the same pair made from Japanese selvedge.

You can buy Mister Freedom at: Franklin & Poe (US), Blue Beach Denim (TW), Cultizm (DE), Clutch Café (UK), Hinoya (JP)

Stevenson Encitas (13 oz.)

The 13 oz. Kuroki denim might be middle of the road, but everything else about Stevenson pairs cuts against the grain. For those who appreciate difference-making details, Stevenson are in a class of their own.

Where most brands use arcuates to help their pairs stand out from the crowd, Stevenson uses curved back pockets, bold bar tacks, and slanted and crossed belt loops. Even those who don’t know what they’re looking at will be able to tell at a glance that this pair is something special.

For a slimmer fit, try Stevenson’s 737 Ventura.

Stevenson is sold at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Franklin & Poe (US), Clutch Café (UK)

Rogue Territory SK (15 oz.)

A minimal and modern take on the classic five-pocket form, Rogue Territory’s SK (“skinny”) Cryptic Indigo uses a slubby Japanese-milled selvedge and a light detailing touch.

With one of our favourite subtle arcuates and an exceptionally modern cut, these are primed for the street. Perfect for hard-nosed individualists.

If you’re looking for something with a little more room, try the Stanton. 

You can buy Rogue Territory here: Redcast Heritage (ES), Stag Provisions (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA)

Indigofera Nash 29 Handdip (13 oz.)

One of the truly remarkable selvedge brands to be found in the lands outside of Japan, Indigofera can go cuff to cuff with just about any of their East Asian competitors. With a distinctly European bent to their styling, Indigofera cut slantwise across the scene with truly stand-out pieces that get noticed even in an exceptionally well-dressed crowd.

This denim takes indigo saturation to new heights, and the cut screams New West at the top of its lungs. A lightweight pair we’d love to see pushed to its breaking point.

We’re also big fans of Indigofera’s Clints. and their Nash in their heavier Shiroyama denim.

Indigofera is sold at these fine retailers: Franklin & Poe (US) and Brooklyn Clothing (CA)

Oldblue Heavyweight Beast (23.7 oz.)

The fade scene in Southeast Asia has produced some of the most stunning faded pairs seen anywhere in the world, and Indonesia’s Oldblue can take some of the credit for sparking some of this interest in what’s happening in Jakarta.

With their gunslinger cut and the looping boot stitches on the back pockets and the coin pocket, these Oldblues list westward even harder than Wranglers.

The denim may be Japanese, but these have more of the six-shooter to them than the katana. They sell out quickly, but Oldblue restock the pair regularly.

Freewheelers Vanishing West 601XX 1951 (14 oz.)

Like The Flat Head, Freewheelers are perhaps best known for their costly leather jackets. Collectors will subside on Spam and salteens for months to get their hands on a Freewheelers hide.

Their top-shelf jeans (only slightly less expensive than their leathers) are a great entry point for the brand, and you get a touch of their detail-oriented brilliance with arguably the best-looking patch and top button in the game.

For a wider fit, try Freewheeler’s 1944-1945.

Naked & Famous Made in Japan (15-23 oz.)

Naked & Famous remains constantly relevant by refusing to rest on their laurels. Their collections range wider than anybody’s, and they have an almost preternatural ability to generate animated conversations in the scene with their gimmicky (yet highly wearable) pairs.

While Naked & Famous cater to novelty-hunting collectors, they also cater to more conservative denim purists. Their Made-in-Japan line can go ten rounds with the other pairs on this list, earning a place in even the most-discerning denim collections.

With the hype around these pairs being absolutely justified, they often sell out quickly (snatched up by the label’s legions of die-hard fans). For something heavier, try their Elephants.

Naked & Famous is sold at: Blue Beach Denim (TW) and Cultizm (DE)