The History of a Lasting Military Style Icon and the Best N1 Jackets You Can Buy
There are a number of garments that have stood the test of time. From sportswear to military uniforms, formal tailoring, and everything in between.
These are the garments we recognise as classic, timeless cornerstones of the modern wardrobe. The N1 is arguably one of the most recognised and popular heavy hitter from the battlefields of the twentieth century.
As well as looking at the design and history of the jacket, we’ll also be looking at there examples that are currently on the market.
Sailing the Seven Seas
At the beginning of the Second World War, the United States Navy was not the giant fighting force it is today. It was rising out of the 1930s; an era of economic downturn and depression.
Many sailors were outfitted in uniforms left over from the First World War. The Navy had not seen significant development in its uniforms for many years, and the peacoat, denim dungarees and khaki chinos were often the order of the day.
With WWII being a truly global conflict, the US Navy developed three separate clothing systems for varying environments: cold weather, wet weather and tropical weather.
From photographic evidence and study of history, it’s clear that the cold weather uniform, commonly now referred to as the N1, was the most popular used by US sailors during WWII.
The deck jacket often stands on its own merits, but it was accompanied by a bib and brace overalls and a soft “helmet” with a peaked front.
Designed for harsh weather conditions, the uniform was used from Dutch Harbor to the beaches of Normandy and the frigid Atlantic Ocean. Protecting sailors from biting wind and freezing temperatures, it saved many a sailor from the harsh natural environment.
Design and Development
The N1 deck jacket was developed in late 1943, built on the experience and lessons learned of the early war years. Made from a hard-wearing corded cotton ‘jungle cloth’ outer-shell and a warm alpaca lining.
Light olive drab or khaki in colour, the jacket changed little during the war years, a testament to its design. An earlier variant in navy blue also existed (and is highly sought after within the collecting community), but was quickly superseded in order to offer better camouflage and concealment.
The jacket featured a drawstring skirt, storm cuffs and a hidden chinstrap collar. It was hip-length and the warmth of the alpaca collar gave the jacket its iconic profile.
Adorned with ‘U.S.N.’ on the left chest and often with a ships designation or the owner’s name on the reverse. Some examples are also seen with artistic renditions of a ship’s ‘station stops’ or fleet insignia.
The Jacket for On and Off Duty
The N1 saw use in all theatres of the war, including the European, the Mediterranean and the Pacific. Navy engineer brigades, landing parties and shore patrols all wore the jacket. It was a garment that was equally at home on land as it was on deck.
Being such a stylish and versatile jacket, I’m sure even a couple of Marines and Army GIs ‘borrowed’ some N1s from Naval supply depots.
As the United States moved into the post-war years, a never before seen amount of military ‘surplus’ became available on the civilian market. Many veterans also kept their beloved uniforms from their time in service and these garments soon became a part of the post-war wardrobe.
Of course, the N1 remained at the heart of the action. From early hot rod races at El Mirage and Bonneville to the Hollywood stars Paul Newman and James Dean. By the 1950s, the N1 was already becoming a cult classic.
The jacket even graced the shoulders of Hell’s Angels members, presumably since the jacket would have been perfect for flying down the highways of the Pacific Coasts and streets of San Bernardino.
The jacket remained in service until the 1960s when it was superseded by the A2 deck jacket (not to be confused with the A2 flying jacket). A testament to its original design and functionality.
The main difference with post-war variants was the darker green colour and it was these garments which were officially designated the ‘N1’ on the neck specification label (wartime versions only noted size, contract number and ‘Navy Department’).
Today, the N1 is as popular as ever. Let’s look at some of the modern interpretations you can buy.
Iron Heart Whipcord N1
Iron Heart’s version of the N1 has become intensely popular, and for very good reason. Designed for motorcycle riders, it pairs perfectly with heavy denim and leather boots.
The latest version (in a stunning 14 oz. oiled whipcord) has replaced the patch pockets with slash pockets (a huge improvement if you ask me).
Iron Heart offers a number of different versions of the N1, including striking black and brown versions. Before deciding on one, be sure to check them all, paying particular attention to slight variations like pocket style.
Buy Iron Heart from these select retailers: Iron Heart International, Franklin & Poe (US), Division Road (US), Corlection (AU), Brooklyn Clothing (CA).
Buzz Rickson’s Khaki N1
If, when you think of khaki, you think of uninteresting shades of beige that blend in with the environment, think again.
Buzz Rickson’s vivid khaki leaps out at you and grabs you by the lapels. If the colour doesn’t speak to you, the meticulous design and sewing perfection will.
After a long and exhaustive search for the perfect N1, this was the one I finally settled on, and I’ve been very happy with my choice.
Dehen1920 Waxed Sailcloth N1
Adding a touch of luxury to the rugged deck jacket, Dehen’s version of the N1 comes complete with a mouton lining and collar.
Made from sheepskin that has been cut and dyed to resemble beaver fur, it lends the jacket a soft and luxurious touch that must be experienced to be fully appreciated.
The price point reflects Dehen’s beautiful touches and their untouchable build quality. Be warned: if you try one of these on, you’ll be more likely to max the plastic than to put it back on the rack.
Real McCoy’s N1 Deck Jacket
Regarded by many as the gold standard for military reproductions, The Real McCoy’s go to the ends of the earth and back again in the search of authenticity. From the thread to the hardware, everything here is about as close to the real thing as you can get.
A fitting tribute to the war-winning classic, Real McCoy’s version of the N1 is tough as nails, and it will only get better with age.
Tellason Blubaugh N1 Deck Jacket
If the versions we’ve listed above are a little out of your price range, Tellason produce our favourite budget version of the deck jacket. With a black selvedge denim shell and a sherpa lining. With this jacket, you get a ton for not a lot of dough.
Our favourite feature is the deep left-side interior pocket, which they’ve borrowed from their iconic Coverall. Big enough to fit a bottle of wine, it makes this jacket a true carryall.
Still Not Convinced? Trust Newman and Dean’s Style!
It’s fair to say that the N1 deck jacket has earned it’s right to be amongst the ranks of not only classic military garments but the menswear wardrobe more broadly.
As Gary Eastman notes, “the N-1-style Deck Jacket is an all-American classic that looks as great today as it did in 1944, functioning within any contemporary wardrobe”.
It’s a jacket which we will continue to see re-interpreted and reproduced, due to its functionality and straight up style. Because hey, Paul Newman and James Dean can’t be wrong when it comes to style, can they?
All pictures of Adam wearing the Pike Brothers N1 deck jacket were taken by Will Varnam.
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Pike Brothers N1 Deck Jaket:
torso too short, sleeves too bulky and too long, not enough around neck, otherwise top quality jacket.