Choose Your Battledress: Denim Shirts That Are Made to Fade

Samurai Denim Western (10 oz.)

€265 at Redcast Heritage

Samurai’s takes on the western shirt feature the boldest styling of any of the items on this list. They play with the western shirt’s conventional pointed yokes and pocket flaps, making them sharper and asymmetrical.

If you’re looking to make a denim statement, this one’s got three exclamation points.

But if those pockets don’t do it for you, give their slightly more conservative 101 Denim Western a try.

Full Count Denim Work Shirt (8 oz.)

$225 at Full Count

Full Count’s emphasis has always been on comfort and wearability, and this shirt is as comfortable and wearable as they come.

It’s substantial, but it also breathes and moves easily, feeling soft against the skin. It’s not fussy. Wear it all year round and treat it carelessly. It’ll still look and feel great.

The shirt is also available in a Western version.

Indigofera Copeland 29 Handdip (13 oz.)

$289 at Franklin & Poe

With its large chest pockets, this shirt has overshirt written all over it, but the cut is classic western. The slim but muscular fit flatters most figures.

It’s roomy enough to be a layering piece, but trim enough to be worn against the skin. A serious piece for those who want to test their fading might.

The 29 handdip Copeland is also sold at Statement (DE) and Brund (DK). We can also highly recommend Indigofera’s 11.5 oz. STF Fargo.

The Real McCoy’s 8HU Denim Serviceman (8 oz.)

€249 at Stuf|f

An homage to the classic American work shirts designed to withstand the rigours of the eight-hour workday (8HU = Eight-Hour Union), Real McCoy’s Serviceman is as true-blue working man’s vintage as they come.

It’s almost too good to get sweaty, but to see its true colours, you’ll need to give it a push.

If the classic work shirt isn’t your bag, you can also check on the availability of their sporadically produced Denim Western.

Benzak BWS-2 Utility Shirt (6.5 oz.)

€209 at Benzak

The lightest shirt on this list is made from Japanese left-hand-twill denim that will quickly turn to butter on your back.

With spacious chest pockets complete with a heart-side pen slot, the Utility Shirt is clearly ready for whatever work you want to throw at it. Copper chain-stitch runoff for bonus points.

If you want to go big, try Benzak’s 11 oz. Military Overshirt.

Stevenson Cody CD-3 Western Shirt (7 oz.)

2,499 SEK at Hepcat Store

As far west as you can get without settling for non-selvedge, the Cody’s yokes, which extend all the way to the sternum, are as distinctive as they come.

Thanks to its easy-to-wear weight, this shirt should be easy to move to the center of your collection. Keep it there and it will become a frayed and faded masterpiece.

While not eligible for the Redline Rally, the washed-down version of this shirt is a ready-to-wear true-blue classic.

TCB Ranchman (8.5 oz.)

€175 at Redcast Heritage

Though the yokes on this shirt don’t feature points, they slant inwards at a dramatic angle, matching the angle of the chest pockets.

The Ranchman is a great choice for those who want to find that tipping point between rural and urban. Equally at home on the street or in the saddle.

If you’re looking for sawtooth pockets, try TCB’s Dude Ranch Shirt.

Warehouse Lot. 3038 Denim Western (8.5 oz.)

£220 at Clutch Café

With subtle contrasting tobacco-coloured thread and matching copper snaps, Warehouse’s modern western is subtly but indisputably brilliant.

Perhaps most striking is the open bottom hem, which should generate beautiful fraying in time—will rocket to the top of your rotation.

For bolder western styling, try their Longhorn Shirt. For a classic work shirt, try their 10 oz Triple Stitched Work Shirt.

Rogue Territory Work Shirt (11 oz.)

$245 at Rogue Territory

Thanks to asymmetrical chest pockets, this work shirt truly has it all. One open pocket, another with a button-down flap, and a concealed pen slot for good measure.

The rounded chest pockets become a more striking feature as the shirt ages. Legendary fade potential.

RGT’s Work Shirt is also available in Indigo Selvedge Canvas and their Black Stealth Denim.

Blaumann Dark Western (8 oz.)

€209 at Blaumann

Blaumann know they are on to a good thing with their modern western design. They offer a virtually identical shirt in a number of fabrics (all of them good), but it’s most in its element in indigo denim. It’s muscular and shaped long through the body and arms for European frames.

We can also recommend this shirt in their 9.2 oz. Kuroki Selvedge. If they don’t include your country in their shipping options, send them an email. They’ll make the necessary arrangements.

Freenote Denim Calico (9 oz.)

$280 at Franklin & Poe

One of the sharpest made-in-America westerns out there, Freenote’s Calico is right in the sweet spot. It’s heavy enough to fade dramatically at the elbows, but not so heavy that it feels like wearing armor. The bone snaps are the pièce de résistance.

The Calico is also available in 9 oz. Black Selvedge with matching black diamond snaps.

Tellason Clampdown (10 oz.)

$198 at Tellason

This simple work shirt has been a pillar in Tellason’s catalogue for years. Designed to be worn as an over-shirt, it is cut generously across the chest and shoulders.

Size down if you want a slimmer fit. If you can keep it dry, you can expect incredible fades from this piece.

We can also recommend their lighter work shirt, the Topper, and their sawtooth Western.

Nudie Jonas Dry Rustic Selvedge (12.5 oz.)

€200 at Nudie

The most modern take on the western on this list, Nudie’s Jonas, made from Italian selvedge, doesn’t loudly announce itself as a western shirt.

The only curved lines you’ll find anywhere on the shirt are at the hem on the bottom, but the back yoke is unmistakable. Sharp and street-ready.

They also offer their Jonas in Black and in their premium Ace Selvedge, though the latter is a Nudie Member exclusive.

Mister Freedom Dude Rancher 101 (8.5 oz)

£330 at Clutch Café

The unmistakable “M” stitching on the chest pockets make this piece recognizable from across the room.

The painted snaps (which will chip as the shirt ages) and the diamond-shaped elbow reinforcements make this shirt a true one of a kind. Faded versions are rare and treasured.

For more subtle western styling, try Mister Freedom’s 9 oz. Appaloosa.

RRL Buffalo Western (7.6 oz.)

$280 at Stag Provisions

While you pay a premium for the RRL label, you also get the best-looking western pockets on this list.

Southwest Americana is the foundation that Lauren built his premium vintage menswear label on, and his legendary design sense is on full display here. Slim fitting and sharp as a whip crack.

It’s not eligible for the Redline Rally, but you can skip to the faded finale with their Dark Wash version.

Eat Dust Western Denim Shirt

€165 at Eat Dust

Arguably the most distinctive and boldest pocket design on this list comes from Antwerp. The Belgian lifestyle brand makes pieces that are impossible to mistake as anybody else’s.

This middleweight denim western (they don’t list the denim weight) is made from Italian denim and finished with marble snaps.

For a more relaxed fit and subtler pocket design, try their Combat Shirt.

Shockoe Atelier Denim Field Shirt (9 oz.)

$225 at Stockoe Atelier

Closing out the list is this simple classic from Virginia’s Shockoe Atelier. The pocket shape is classic workwear, but the cut is more runway than factory floor.

Will work either on its own or as a layering piece. The tonal stitching creates a sharp monochromatic look.

It may start subtle, but as it fades, it’ll begin to grab attention.