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Raw Denim Shirts Primed for the Podium
Once we’ve faded one piece of selvedge, we want to fade them all. For many of us, the grail of fades is the denim shirt. Fading jeans is relatively straightforward, but the perfectly faded denim shirt proves elusive for many.
Above-the-belt fades are, of course, trickier to produce than jeans, mostly because we are more likely to rotate through a collection of shirts than we are to focus on a single piece for months on end. The formula is simple, though: Find a perfect-fitting piece you love and wear it to death, forsaking others for at least a year.
The perfect fit is simply a matter of knowing your numbers. Check the measurement charts for each of the shirts listed below. If it’s not a perfect fit (even if you love the fabric or the brand), keep looking. If the fit is off, even by just a small amount, the other, better-fitting shirts in your collection will start calling your name.
Brands you’ll find on the list
In this guide, we’ll look at some of the best shirts primed for a full year of wear. The list includes well-known denimhead favourites like The Flat Head, Iron Heart, SOSO, Samurai, TCB and Studio D’Artisan. We’ve also included brands you might not have considered like Benzak, Rogue Territory and Blaumann.
The Flat Head Denim Western (10 oz.)
If the sleeves were a touch longer, I’d probably have two of these hanging in my closet. The styling is simply perfect, with a tight trio of yellow mother of pearl snaps at the cuffs and slanted pockets that tip towards each other without skewing the clean, modern design. If the fit is right, snap one up.
If you prefer more classic workwear styling, try their 12 oz. Work Shirt.
The Flat Head is sold at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Corlection (AU), and Franklin & Poe (US)
Iron Heart IHSH-33 (12 oz.)
Conspicuously well-made, Iron Heart’s denim westerns are, for many, the standard by which all others are judged.
The contrasting yellow thread used in the triple stitched yokes makes this version immediately recognizable as a serious piece of kit. It’s notoriously stubborn, but the fades, when they finally arrive, are well worth the wait.
We also recommend their heavyweight 18 oz. CPO Overshirt, their Overdyed 12 oz. Black Western, and their Tonal Western (with dark stitching).
Buy Iron Heart from these select retailers: Iron Heart International, Franklin & Poe (US), Division Road (US), Corlection (AU), Brooklyn Clothing (CA).
SOSO Custom Shirt
The SOSO Brothers stepped into the ring swinging with both fists when they made their debut in the scene. Since then, they’ve been the best-possible combination of value and selection for denimheads, with a wide range of exceptional fabrics that be turned into fully custom pieces.
SOSO have a very strong track record in both The Redline Rally and The Indigo Invitational. Their pieces fade beautifully, and they fit exactly how you want them to. If you’ve ever found yourself struggling to find that perfect fit, a made-to-measure piece from SOSO will be just the ticket.
Iron Heart Pale Rider (1.1mm Horsehide)
This horsehide western shirt is an outlier on this list of raw denim shirts, but we have very good reason for including it here.
For the first time, we are allowing unlined, natural leather pieces into the Redline Rally. The Iron Heart x Simmons Bilt Pale Rider is the reason we made this change. We desperately want to see how these horsehide beauties can develop if given that full-year treatment.
The most expensive item on this list by a wide margin, this shirt will repay its hefty price tag and then some if worn day in and day out. A rugged character piece beyond compare, the Pale Rider has truly legendary potential, but only if it’s given its due.
Other great natural leather pieces we are recommending include the Mister Freedom Campus Jacket and the Shangri-La Heritage Cossack Jacket.
Buy Iron Heart from these select retailers: Iron Heart International, Franklin & Poe(US), Division Road (US), Corlection (AU), Brooklyn Clothing (CA).
Studio D’Artisan Aishibuzome (15 oz.)
We’re suckers for denim with brown weft, and that goes double when the combination is natural indigo and kakishibu. The two mix and fade magically, and we’re intensely excited to see what kind of fades this SDA denim will produce.
Be aware that, at this weight, this shirt will not fade easily. It will need some coaxing. With a bit of elbow grease, you’ll bring out its best—and SDA pieces at their faded best are true (and rare) works of art.
If you’re looking for something buttery soft, we can also highly recommend SDA’s Mid-Weight Black Sashiko Shirt and their always-popular 14 oz. Western.
You can buy Studio D’Artisan from these retailers: Redcast Heritage (ES), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Corlection (AU), Hinoya (JP), Division Road (US)
Samurai Denim Western (10 oz.)
Samurai’s takes on the western shirt feature the boldest styling of any of the items on this list. They play with the western shirt’s conventional pointed yokes and pocket flaps, making them sharper and asymmetrical.
If you’re looking to make a denim statement, this one’s got three exclamation points. We’ve never seen one of these really pushed hard in the Rally. Be the first to do so and you’ll definitely turn heads.
But if those pockets don’t do it for you, give their slightly more conservative 101 Denim Western a try.
You can buy Samurai from all of these retailers: Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Blue in Green (US), Redcast Heritage (ES), and Corlection (AU).
Full Count US Army Pullover (10 oz.)
Full Count’s emphasis has always been on comfort and wearability, and this shirt is as comfortable and wearable as they come.
It’s substantial, but it also breathes and moves easily, feeling soft against the skin. It’s not fussy. Wear it all year round and treat it carelessly. It’ll still look and feel great, and the vintage design will definitely capture attention.
Full Count also has a beautiful classic Western Shirt.
You can buy Full Count from: Blue in Green (US) and Clutch Café (UK)
Indigofera Ryman (8 oz.)
This rinsed lightweight western might not be primed for crazy combs, but, for those who either prefer or need to wash their shirts regularly, this instant classic from Indigofera will jive perfectly with that approach.
Indigofera boasts some of the best snaps in the game, and they’ve loaded this one up with almost 20 of them. If you like serious hardware and classic mid-century western styling, you can’t do much better than this.
If you really want to rock the boat, Indigofera’s 14 oz. Gunpowder Fargo makes tsunami-sized waves.
The Real McCoy’s 8HU Denim Serviceman (8 oz.)
An homage to the classic American work shirts designed to withstand the rigours of the eight-hour workday (8HU = Eight-Hour Union), Real McCoy’s Serviceman is as true-blue working man’s vintage as they come.
It’s almost too good to get sweaty, but to see its true colours, you’ll need to put in a long string of eight-hour days.
If the classic work shirt isn’t your bag, you can also check on the availability of their equally good Denim Western.
Real McCoy’s is available at these retailers: Lost & Found (CA) and Clutch Café (UK)
Benzak BWS-01 Work Shirt (8 oz.)
One of the biggest bang-for-buck shirts on this list, the BWS-01 is made from denim milled for Benzak by Japan’s Collect Mills. You’ll have to spend considerably more to get into anything better than this beauty.
It’s a no-nonsense work shirt, with plenty of room in the button-down pockets for whatever you need to carry. Oodles of chain-stitch runoff for bonus points.
If you want something heftier or something with more stylish pockets, try Benzak’s 10 oz. Scout Overshirt.
Stevenson Cody CD-3 Western Shirt (7 oz.)
As far west as you can get without settling for non-selvedge, the Cody’s yokes, which extend all the way to the sternum, are a yeehaw hollered into the barn rafters.
Thanks to its easy-to-wear weight, this shirt should be easy to move to the center of your collection. Keep it there and it will become a frayed and faded honkeytonk hero.
While not eligible for the Redline Rally, the washed-down version of this shirt is a ready-to-wear true-blue classic.
Stevenson is sold at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Corlection (AU), Franklin & Poe (US), Clutch Café (UK)
TCB Dude Rancher (8.5 oz.)
For budget-conscious selvedge shoppers who don’t want to sacrifice on quality on Japanese pedigree, TCB has long been the go-to brand. Everything you love about made-in-Japan heritage style is here, and for a fraction of the price of other Japanese brands.
The Dude Rancher is one of the best sawtooth western shirts around. Though it can’t match TCB’s Ranchman (linked below) for popularity, it is a little easier to find, and it has everything we look for in great selvedge western shirts.
TCB’s extremely popular Ranchman is worth waiting for. It sells out quickly, so be ready to pounce when they restock.
Warehouse Lot. 3038 Denim Western (8.5 oz.)
With subtle contrasting tobacco-coloured thread and matching copper snaps, Warehouse’s modern western is subtly but indisputably brilliant.
What makes this shirt unique is the open bottom hem (rather than being folded and stitched, it’s left unfolded. Wear the hell out of this and the bottom will fray beautifully.
For bolder western styling, try their Longhorn Shirt. For a classic work shirt, try their 10 oz Triple Stitched Work Shirt.
Warehouse is sold at these excellent retailers: Clutch Café (UK), Sun House (JP), Corlection (AU), Lost & Found (CA), Hinoya (JP).
Rogue Territory Selvedge Canvas Shirt (15 oz.)
We’ve snuck in another non-denim shirt, but nobody will be the wiser. This has all the features you’d look for in a great denim workshirt, and the stiff canvas should help this shirt produce stunning contrast fades if pushed hard enough (it won’t crack without considerable effort).
The asymmetrical and rounded chest pockets will become an even more striking feature as the shirt ages. Truly legendary fade potential for those who have the guts to take this bull by the horns.
The Service Shirt is also available in Black. If you’re looking for something with even more features, RGT’s snap-up Service Shirt is also available in a 15 oz. Selvedge Canvas version.
You can buy Rogue Territory here: Stag Provisions (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Redcast Heritage (ES)
Blaumann Dark Western (8 oz.)
Blaumann know they are on to a good thing with their modern western design. They offer a virtually identical shirt in a number of fabrics (all of them good), but it’s most in its element in indigo denim. It’s muscular and shaped long through the body and arms for European frames.
We can also recommend this shirt in their 9.2 oz. Kuroki Selvedge. If they don’t include your country in their online shipping options, send them an email. They’ll make the necessary arrangements.
Freenote Denim Calico (9 oz.)
One of the sharpest made-in-America westerns out there, Freenote’s Calico is right in the sweet spot. It’s heavy enough to fade dramatically at the elbows, but not so heavy that it feels like wearing armor. The bone snaps are the pièce de résistance.
The Calico is also available in 9 oz. Black Selvedge with matching black diamond snaps.
Tellason Topper (7.5 oz.)
This fusion of work and western shirts has been a pillar in Tellason’s catalogue for years. The combination of useful pockets makes it immediately recognisable and always a practical choice.
Despite its relatively light weight, this shirt will produce beautiful fades if you can keep it dry. Keep the marinara sauce at arm’s length.
Though it’s far too heavy to wear as a shirt, if you’re looking for a proven fading champion, look no further than Tellason’s 16.5 oz. Coverall.
Nudie Jonas Dry Black Selvedge (12.75 oz.)
The most modern take on the western on this list, Nudie’s Jonas, made from a crisp black selvedge, doesn’t loudly announce itself as a western shirt.
Dominated by sharp lines rather than curved ones, the shirt is all angles, but it’s got true-blue western credentials on the back side. That yoke is unmistakably western.
They also offer their Jonas in their premium Ace Selvedge, though it is a Nudie Member exclusive. If it ticks all your boxes, it might merit signing up.
Mister Freedom Longshoreman (8.5 oz)
A pullover inspired by archived pieces worn by sailors and longshoremen in the 1930s, this shirt features the only zipper you’ll find anywhere on this list.
We’ve seen pullovers faded to perfection in the Rally, and this one has the potential to surpass them all. If the classic button- or snap-up shirts leave you wanting, this one might be a welcome addition to your collection.
For more subtle western styling, try Mister Freedom’s 9 oz. Appaloosa.
You can buy Mister Freedom at: Franklin & Poe (US), Clutch Café (UK), Hinoya (JP)
RRL Buffalo Western (7.6 oz.)
While you pay a premium for the RRL label, you also get the best-looking western pockets on this list.
Southwest Americana is the foundation that Lauren built his premium vintage menswear label on, and his legendary design sense is on full display here. Slim fitting and sharp as a whip crack.
You can skip to the faded finale with their Dark Wash version (not eligible for the Rally).
Eat Dust Western Denim Shirt
Arguably the boldest pocket design on this list comes from Antwerp. The Belgian lifestyle brand makes unmistakable pieces. See their pockets even once and you’ll be able to spot them from a mile away.
This middleweight denim western (they don’t list the denim weight) is finished with marble snaps. It’s that rare combination of distinctive design and an extremely reasonable price tag.
If you’re looking for something a little heavier, we can also highly recommend their 13 oz. Chore Coat.
Shockoe Atelier Denim Western (7 oz.)
Closing out the list is this modern take on the classic western from Virginia’s Shockoe Atelier. This lightweight denim won’t produce striking contrasts, but, with a steady year of wear, this one will be a true-blue stunner.
Shockoe offer free lifetime repairs on their pieces. Go ahead, get it dirty. Wear through the elbows. They’ll be there to patch it up when it starts to break down.
Shockoe also do a very good Denim Jacket that breaks free of the conventional styles.
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