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Raw Denim Shirts Primed for Grail Fades
Once we’ve faded one piece of selvedge, we want to fade them all. For many of us, the grail of fades is the denim shirt. The process is no less straightforward than it is with jeans, but still, the perfectly faded denim shirt proves elusive for many.
Mostly, this is because we tend to add a few new shirts to our collections each year. It’s hard to focus on one shirt, forsaking all others, when we’ve got that new favourite that’s calling our name.
If you want that perfectly faded shirt, you won’t get it by rotating through half a dozen shirts. You’ll have to put one made-to-fade shirt at the centre of your life and your style and push it for all it’s worth.
This is, of course, easier said than done, but it’s easier than you might think—especially when, after six months or so, you start to see real progress.
The shirts below deserve (and will reward) this kind of dedication. Find the one that speaks to you (and fits you perfectly), push the other shirts to the back of the closet, and commit yourself to producing the best fades of your life.
DENIM, EXPLAINED
Not Sure Where to Start?
If you’re trying to make sense of raw and selvedge denim, the guides below will help you narrow things down—by brand, weight, and what actually matters when choosing jeans.
- Selvedge Masterlist – A big-picture overview of the most important jeans brands—and how they differ.
- Lightweight Raw Denim – A curated guide to lighter-weight jeans that are easier to wear day to day.
- Best Heavyweight Jeans – A guide to heavier denim, what makes it special, and who it’s actually for.
TL;DR – The Five Best Selvedge Denim Shirts
If you’re in a rush, here’s a short list of our five favourite selvedge denim shirts. If you’re looking to lay down some serious fades on a shirt, put these shirts on the top of your list.
Iron Heart IHSH-33 (12 oz.)
Conspicuously well-made, Iron Heart’s denim westerns are, for many, the standard by which all other denim shirts are judged.
Iron Heart makes heavier versions of their denim western shirt, but the 12 oz. version is the standard bearer for the brand. It might feel heavy enough to wear as a jacket at first, but in time it’ll soften right up. Keep it dry for as long as possible for best results (i.e., striking contrasts).
Iron Heart’s denim westerns move extremely quickly. If you’ve got your eye on one that’s not in stock, sign up to get notified when they restock.
Iron Heart is available at: Division Road (US), Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Iron Provisions (US), and of course at Iron Heart International.
Studio D’Artisan 14 oz. Shirt (14 oz.)
One of the most popular starting points for serious faders who want to add a faded shirt to their collection, this crisp heavyweight shirt has proven fade potential.
Thanks to the weight of this denim, you can expect some thick rolls at the elbows. It’ll take a bit to get this one through its break-in period, but these fades are worth the work and the wait.
SDA’s slighter lightweight Sawtooth Western is dyed with natural indigo. Any of their denim shirts could have made this list.
You can buy Studio D’Artisan from these retailers: Redcast Heritage (ES), Division Road (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Hinoya (JP)
The Flat Head Denim Western (10 oz.)
If the sleeves were a touch longer, I’d probably have two of these hanging in my closet. The styling is simply perfect, with a tight trio of yellow mother of pearl snaps at the cuffs and slanted pockets that tip towards each other without skewing the clean, modern design.
Fade enthusiasts know that The Flat Head don’t mess around when it comes to fades. If the fit is right, the fades will be fire. Snap one on and snap it up.
If you prefer more classic workwear styling, try their 12 oz. Work Shirt.
The Flat Head is sold at Redcast Heritage (ES) and Franklin & Poe (US)
Indigofera Fargo (14.5–18 oz.)
Equal parts overshirt and jacket, Indigofera’s Fargo is a beast of a shirt that’ll work best as a layering piece. One of Indigofera’s best-loved tops, the Fargo is as immediately recognisable as it is dripping with potential.
Indigofera release a few different versions of the Fargo each year. We love it as a 14.5 oz. indigo middleweight, but you might prefer the Gunpowder Fargo—one of the sharpest black selvedge shirts in the game.
Indigofera’s Copeland (the Fargo’s trimmer sibling) features higher pockets. A stunner in every fabric they release it in.
Indigofera is sold at: Franklin & Poe (US), Iron Shop Provisions (US), Blue Beach Denim (Taiwan), and Manready Mercantile (US)
Freenote Western Scout (11 oz.)
When the denim wizards at Freenote approach a category (like the western shirt), they don’t just tick a box. They leave their mark on the category, designing a piece that seems to bridge the here and now with the far-ago far-away.
There are so many features to love here (the graceful curve to the front yokes and the indigo stitching are both standouts), but it’s the one feature we’d almost never use that really stands out here. The top button, sourced from Italy, is made from bone. A masterstroke on a masterpiece of a shirt.
This one might not stay on shelves for long, but we’re hoping that it’ll become a permanent member of the Freenote family.
Freenote Cloth is available at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing Co. (CA)
SOSO Custom Shirt
The SOSO Brothers stepped into the ring swinging with both fists when they made their debut in the scene. Since then, they’ve been the best-possible combination of value and selection for denimheads, with a wide range of exceptional fabrics that be turned into fully custom pieces.
SOSO have a very strong track record in both The Redline Rally and The Indigo Invitational. Their pieces fade beautifully, and they fit exactly how you want them to. If you’ve ever found yourself struggling to find that perfect fit, a made-to-measure piece from SOSO will be just the ticket.
Iron Heart Pale Rider (1.1mm Horsehide)
This horsehide western shirt is an outlier on this list of raw denim shirts, but we have very good reason for including it here.
Unlined, natural leather pieces are now allowed in the Redline Rally, and one cracked the Top 10 last year. This shirt, absolutely dripping with potential, is the reason for this change, and they give faders a brilliant chance to do something a little different (and get noticed by the community and the judges).
The most expensive item on this list by a wide margin, this shirt will repay its hefty price tag and then some if worn day in and day out. A rugged character piece beyond compare, the Pale Rider has truly legendary potential, but only if it’s given its due.
Other great natural leather pieces we are recommending include the Mister Freedom Campus Jacket and the Shangri-La Heritage Cossack Jacket.
Buy Iron Heart from these select retailers: Iron Heart International, Franklin & Poe(US), Division Road (US), Corlection (AU), Brooklyn Clothing (CA).
The Real McCoy’s 8HU Denim Serviceman (8 oz.)
An homage to the classic American work shirts designed to withstand the rigours of the eight-hour workday (8HU = Eight-Hour Union), Real McCoy’s Serviceman is as true-blue working man’s vintage as they come.
It’s almost too good to get sweaty, but to see its true colours, you’ll need to put in a long string of eight-hour days.
If the classic work shirt isn’t your bag, you can also check on the availability of their equally good Denim Western.
Real McCoy’s is available at Lost & Found (CA) and Clutch Café (UK)
TCB Dude Rancher (8.5 oz.)
For budget-conscious selvedge shoppers who don’t want to sacrifice on quality on Japanese pedigree, TCB has long been the go-to brand. Everything you love about made-in-Japan heritage style is here, and for a fraction of the price of other Japanese brands.
The Dude Rancher is one of the best sawtooth western shirts around. Though it can’t match TCB’s Ranchman (linked below) for popularity, it is a little easier to find, and it has everything we look for in great selvedge western shirts.
TCB’s extremely popular Ranchman is worth waiting for. It sells out quickly, so be ready to pounce when they restock.
TCB is available at: Redcast Heritage (ES) and Cultizm (DE)
Samurai Denim Western (10 oz.)
Samurai’s takes on the western shirt feature the boldest styling of any of the items on this list. They play with the western shirt’s conventional pointed yokes and pocket flaps, making them sharper and asymmetrical.
If you’re looking to make a denim statement, this one’s got three exclamation points. We’ve never seen one of these really pushed hard in the Rally. Be the first to do so and you’ll definitely turn heads.
But if those pockets don’t do it for you, give their slightly more conservative 101 Denim Western a try.
You can buy Samurai from these retailers: Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Blue in Green (US), and Redcast Heritage (ES).
Benzak Denim Overshirt (10 oz.)
One of the biggest bang-for-buck shirts on this list, this shirt is made from denim milled for Benzak by Japan’s Collect Mills. You’ll have to spend considerably more to get into anything better than this beauty.
It’s a no-nonsense work shirt, with plenty of room in the button-down pockets for whatever you need to carry. Oodles of chain-stitch runoff for bonus points.
Tellason Topper (7.5 oz.)
This fusion of work and western shirts has been a pillar in Tellason’s catalogue for years. The combination of useful pockets makes it immediately recognisable and always a practical choice.
Despite its relatively light weight, this shirt will produce beautiful fades if you can keep it dry. Keep the marinara sauce at arm’s length.
Though it’s far too heavy to wear as a shirt, if you’re looking for a proven fading champion, look no further than Tellason’s 16.5 oz. Coverall.
Stevenson Cody CD-3 Western Shirt (7 oz.)
As far west as you can get without settling for non-selvedge, the Cody’s yokes, which extend all the way to the sternum, are a yeehaw hollered into the barn rafters.
Thanks to its easy-to-wear weight, this shirt should be easy to move to the center of your collection. Keep it there and it will become a frayed and faded honkeytonk hero.
While not eligible for the Redline Rally, the washed-down version of this shirt is a ready-to-wear true-blue classic.
Stevenson is sold at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Franklin & Poe (US), Clutch Café (UK)
Warehouse Lot. 3038 Denim Western (8.5 oz.)
With subtle contrasting tobacco-coloured thread and matching copper snaps, Warehouse’s modern western is subtly but indisputably brilliant.
What makes this shirt unique is the open bottom hem (rather than being folded and stitched, it’s left unfolded. Wear the hell out of this and the bottom will fray beautifully.
For bolder western styling, try their Longhorn Shirt. For a classic work shirt, try their 10 oz Triple Stitched Work Shirt.
Warehouse is at Lost & Found (CA), Hinoya (JP), and Clutch Café (UK).
Full Count US Army Pullover (10 oz.)
Full Count’s emphasis has always been on comfort and wearability, and this shirt is as comfortable and wearable as they come.
It’s substantial, but it also breathes and moves easily, feeling soft against the skin. It’s not fussy. Wear it all year round and treat it carelessly. It’ll still look and feel great, and the vintage design will definitely capture attention.
Full Count also has a beautiful classic Western Shirt.
Buy Full Count at Redcast Heritage (ES), Blue in Green (US), Cultizm (DE), Clutch Café (UK)
Rogue Territory Selvedge Canvas Shirt (15 oz.)
We’ve snuck in another non-denim shirt, but nobody will be the wiser. This has all the features you’d look for in a great denim workshirt, and the stiff canvas should help this shirt produce stunning contrast fades if pushed hard enough (it won’t crack without considerable effort).
The asymmetrical and rounded chest pockets will become an even more striking feature as the shirt ages. Truly legendary fade potential for those who have the guts to take this bull by the horns.
The Service Shirt is also available in Black. If you’re looking for something with even more features, RGT’s snap-up Service Shirt is also available in a 15 oz. Selvedge Canvas version.
You can buy Rogue Territory here: Redcast Heritage (ES), Stag Provisions (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA)
Nudie Jonas Dry Black Selvedge (12.75 oz.)
The most modern take on the western on this list, Nudie’s Jonas, made from a crisp black selvedge, doesn’t loudly announce itself as a western shirt.
Dominated by sharp lines rather than curved ones, the shirt is all angles, but it’s got true-blue western credentials on the back side. That yoke is unmistakably western.
They also offer their Jonas in their premium Ace Selvedge, though it is a Nudie Member exclusive. If it ticks all your boxes, it might merit signing up.
Mister Freedom Longshoreman (8.5 oz)
A pullover inspired by archived pieces worn by sailors and longshoremen in the 1930s, this shirt features the only zipper you’ll find anywhere on this list.
We’ve seen pullovers faded to perfection in the Rally, and this one has the potential to surpass them all. If the classic button- or snap-up shirts leave you wanting, this one might be a welcome addition to your collection.
For more subtle western styling, try Mister Freedom’s 9 oz. Appaloosa.
You can buy Mister Freedom at: Franklin & Poe (US), Blue Beach Denim (TW), Cultizm (DE), Clutch Café (UK), Hinoya (JP)
Shockoe Atelier Denim Western (7 oz.)
Closing out the list is this modern take on the classic western from Virginia’s Shockoe Atelier. This lightweight denim won’t produce striking contrasts, but, with a steady year of wear, this one will be a true-blue stunner.
Shockoe offer free lifetime repairs on their pieces. Go ahead, get it dirty. Wear through the elbows. They’ll be there to patch it up when it starts to break down.
Shockoe also do a very good Denim Jacket that breaks free of the conventional styles.
Blaumann Dark Western (8 oz.)
Blaumann know they are on to a good thing with their modern western design. They offer a virtually identical shirt in a number of fabrics (all of them good), but it’s most in its element in indigo denim. It’s muscular and shaped long through the body and arms for European frames.
We can also recommend this shirt in their 9.2 oz. Kuroki Selvedge. If they don’t include your country in their online shipping options, send them an email. They’ll make the necessary arrangements.
RRL Buffalo Western (7.6 oz.)
While you pay a premium for the RRL label, you also get the best-looking western pockets on this list.
Southwest Americana is the foundation that Lauren built his premium vintage menswear label on, and his legendary design sense is on full display here. Slim fitting and sharp as a whip crack.
You can skip to the faded finale with their Dark Wash version (not eligible for the Rally).
Eat Dust Western Denim Shirt
Arguably the boldest pocket design on this list comes from Antwerp. The Belgian lifestyle brand makes unmistakable pieces. See their pockets even once and you’ll be able to spot them from a mile away.
This middleweight denim western (they don’t list the denim weight) is finished with marble snaps. It’s that rare combination of distinctive design and an extremely reasonable price tag.
If you’re looking for something a little heavier, we can also highly recommend their 13 oz. Chore Coat.
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I’m Thomas, founder of Denimhunters. Once a week, I send an email with what I’m working on and writing—new guides, deals, and things worth paying attention to.
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