Rugged, Stylish, and Warm, These Are the World’s Best Fisherman’s Sweaters
For the landlubber, the sea is a vast and inscrutable mystery. For fishermen and sailors, though, it has spilled some of its secrets. They can read both sea and sky like they were newspaper print, spotting shoals and shallows from afar and scenting storms on the wind. They know things that drylanders do not, and this has always leant them a special status in the collective imagination.
The history of the fisherman’s sweater is covered in considerable detail in our book, The Rebel’s Wardrobe. Get your copy here.
Our fascination with sailors and fishermen extends to their clothing. Anything tough and warm enough for them is tough enough for us. We’ve already looked at the sailor’s peacoat, deck jacket, and duffel, but in this guide, we’re looking at what is arguably the most iconic sea-born garment: the fisherman’s sweater.
Traditionally made from five-ply worsted wool, which can absorb as much as 30% of its weight in water before it begins to feel wet, the tightly knit sweaters have been the Atlantic fisherman’s best friend for centuries, and, along with the other rugged, seaworthy classics, they sailed into the rugged menswear scene with ease.
If you’re looking to complete the kit with some seriously warm wool, you’ll find our favourite brands on this list. Some of the brands listed below have a clear frontrunner in the sailor’s sweater category, but others have a range of colours and neck styles to pick from. Whenever possible, we’ll guide you to pages that give you at least a few options to pick from. Anchors aweigh!
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Heimat Textil U-Boat Sweaters
Our favourite nautical knitwear maker hails from Germany, and their impressive list of stockists is a fog-horn blast signalling the brand’s unimpeachable quality and attention to detail. For those whose stock and trade is well-made knitwear, Heimat sweaters are as essential as they come.
Made in Germany from one kilogram of oily five-ply wool, Heimat’s U-Boat sweaters are a loving tribute to the hardy sweaters designed for cold-weather sailors, submariners, and airmen in WWII. The oily virgin wool makes the sweater practically self-cleaning, so, barring some disaster with the marinara, you won’t need to wash the sweater at all.
Heimat has a ton of amazing sweaters to pick from. We’ve linked you to their classic U-Boat Roll Neck (available in more than a dozen colours) below, but, if you’re looking for something in more than one colour, check out their Signal Sweaters. You really can’t go wrong with anything from this brand.
S.N.S. Herning Robust & Stark
For those who treat well-made sweaters and cardigans as a cornerstone of their fall and winter wardrobes, S.N.S. Herning provides an unmatched combination of style and comfort. The brand will soon celebrate its 100th birthday, and it’s clear they’ve learned a thing or two over the last century.
Designed in Denmark and knit from 5-gauge virgin wool yarns on highly specialised (and old) machines elsewhere in Europe, these sweaters are the perfect choice for those who are serious about their knitwear. Very nearly took top spot on this list.
For an even more traditional fisherman’s sweater, Herning makes one of the best. You can find it here.
Allevol x Inverallan Cable Knit
The chunky knits, the result of a collaboration between an English lifestyle brand and Scottish knitters, are simply too good to miss. Based on a design originally worn by Atlantic fishermen, this is traditional knitwear made purposefully and slowly.
As good as they are, the merino wool versions of the sweater take a back seat to the indigo-dyed cotton versions. They may not have the insulating or water-resistance properties of the wool sweaters on this list, but, unless you absolutely need the wool, these sweaters will be more than enough to keep you warm and stylish.
A Japanese customer wore his at every possible opportunity for a few years, creating the faded beauty you see below. Only the combination of cotton and indigo can do this.
The classic crew neck sweaters are incredible, but you’ll want to take a look at their button-up cardigans as well. The long-body belted cardigans are a little more expensive, but worth every penny.
Left Field Steve McQueen Sweater
New York’s Left Field are best known for their work with denim, but, whenever they take a left turn into the wider world of rugged menswear, they showcase their ability to source top-shelf materials. They belted this one out of the park.
They’ve used a familiar model for this one. Steve McQueen wore a sweater very much like this one when he was photographed on the seashore. If you’ve ever wanted to recreate this stylish moment, here’s your chance.
The sweater is made from Irish wool, but it’s knitted and sewn in New York. Available in two colours, and likely only for a limited time.
Andersen-Andersen Navy
Combining Danish design and Italian knitting, Andersen-Andersen have become a prominent name in the race to become the world’s premier outdoor knitwear manufacturer. To distinguish themselves, they focus on quality and timeless design, and they come as close to perfecting the simple sweater as anybody.
Their Navy sweater, made from Patagonian wool, features extended sleeves with holes for your thumbs. If you don’t need the extra coverage, they can be rolled up to the wrist.
We’re particularly fond of the simple and classic roll-neck, but you might be partial to Andersen-Andersen’s wide range of zip-up or button-up sweaters, which have become some of the brand’s most popular items.
Chamula Turtleneck
With each piece spun, dyed, and knit by hand from merino wool in Mexico, each Chamula sweater is entirely unique. Incredibly soft and warm, these are heirloom pieces that will likely put all of your other knitwear to shame.
Chamula’s pullovers come in an ever-changing assortment of designs and colours, but we’re most attracted to their simplest offerings. Their single-colour turtlenecks, with the big roll at the top, are some of the best turtlenecks we’ve ever seen. A deep investment, but worth the price.
Not only are the turtlenecks our favourite, they’re also one of the least expensive sweaters this brand makes. If you’re looking at the more bold and colourful options, be prepared to dig even deeper to bring one home with you.
Rakki Notre Dame Jumper
This Italian knitwear brand makes their pieces in very small batches, basing each piece on either archived or photographed pieces from history. If you’re looking to replicate the simple elegance of the distant past, this is your ticket.
Our favourite is the Notre Dame Jumper. Based on a photograph by Reid Miles of a model mimicking the pose of one of Notre Dame’s gargoyles (they’ve incorrectly attributed it to French photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson), the sweater looks as effortlessly stylish today as it did more than half a century ago.
The design of the sweater isn’t exactly airtight. It may not keep the artic winds at bay, but that just makes it more wearable (especially in temperate climates).
Milo & Dexter Wool Sweater
Those in the know will tell you: Canadian knitwear can go toe to toe with European and Japanese knitwear brands, and they know a thing or two about staying warm up in the frozen north. Milo & Dexter lean into the long and storied tradition of Canadian knitters with a small range of impeccable sweaters.
Knit in Canada from English wool, they are as robust as they are stylish. Pair them with a great pair of selvedge and you’re all set. The substantial cuffs and waistband will trap the heat nicely, keeping you warm and toasty when the nights are long and dark.
Available in a few colours, but we’re partial to the brown and grey pictured here.
Filson Bristol
Filson may have given up a lot of their heritage bona fides when they started outsourcing their manufacturing to overseas labour market (this one was made in Tunisia), but they still make some impeccable pieces of rugged kit. Credit where credit is due.
If turtlenecks or crewnecks leave you feeling a little claustrophobic, this shawl-collar pullover will give you all that wooly warmth without any of that constant but gentle pressure on your throat.
With that eye-catching stripe at the cuffs and waistband, this one’s probably not going to stick around for long. Hopefully, it will make regular appearance in their FW collections.
Batoner Signature Crew Neck
You can find Batoner knitwear at the intersection of luxury and durability. With immaculate finishing, this Japanese brand with a French name produce knit pieces for some of the world’s biggest fashion houses, so you might have handled one of their pieces already in high-end boutiques.
This crew neck takes the raglan shape to new heights, adding a distinctly horizontal touch to the chest that makes this piece stand out from similar sweaters. It’s available in dark green and black, but nothing highlights the interesting knit quite like this beautiful orange.
Batoner has an impeccable Lineup of Sweaters. They make one of the meanest turtlenecks around.
Triple Aught Design Overlord
Drawing inspiration from battle-ready field clothing, Triple Aught Design has partnered with knitters in Italy to produce this heavy-duty tactical sweater that is slightly more concerned with practicality and performance than with style.
A great choice for those who value readiness, the Overlord is brimming with features, including amphibious cloth reinforcements at heavy wear areas and a multi-pocket patch on the left bicep with slots for a pen, tire gauge, and sunglasses.
Made from 100% merino wool, the Overlord is surprisingly comfortable and, thanks to reinforcements on the shoulders (where your backpack straps sit) and the elbows and lower arms, this one will be with you for ages—even if you’re exceptionally hard on equipment.
Guernsey Woolens Sweaters
Closing this list with the most traditional sailor’s sweater of the bunch. Originally, sailor’s sweaters were knit symmetrically, so they could just be slipped over the head without wondering which side is which. This was especially crucial at night or when crises demanded a quick response.
These sweaters, knit in India, recreate that tradition, using hand-spun English wool to craft sweaters that can be thrown on any which way. If you ever need to get dressed in the dark, or if you want to spread the wear around on the sweater, this one’s perfect.
The brand also does some brilliant cable knit sweaters. Definitely a brand we’ll be watching in this space.
Join the Fleet!
A fisherman’s sweater goes with just about everything. Well-faded Selvedge Jeans look especially good, as does a nice pair of generous khakis or corduroy trousers. Nothing, though, pairs as well with sailor’s sweaters as a piece of naval outerwear. Check out our guide covering our favourite versions of the peacoat, the N1 deck jacket, and duffel here.
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