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Our Favourite Made-to-Fade Raw Denim Jackets
Even for expert-level faders, denim jackets represent a unique challenge. Jackets seem to take enormous amounts of time to fade beautifully. When we spot a well-faded raw denim jacket in the wild, the story is a familiar one: “Oh, this old thing? I’ve had it for years.”
When Bryan started The Redline Rally, it was because we were convinced that the same approach we take to jeans in the Indigo Invitational could produce similar results if applied to shirts and jackets.
We believed that even stubborn and heavy denim jackets would yield to a year of steady pressure. Our jacket-fading competitors in Year 1 and Year 2 of the Redline Rally proved us right and then some. In fact, in Year 1, nine out of ten of the winning pieces were jackets. In Year 2, all ten of them were.
If you are searching for a raw denim jacket, we’ve got you covered with this guide that lists about a dozen of our all-time favourite raw denim jackets. Each jacket listed below is a made-to-fade classic that will be a centrepiece of your wardrobe for years to come.
Iron Heart IH-526J-142ib Type III (14 oz.)
This is the lightest denim that Iron Heart uses for their jackets (the heavy ones go up to 22 oz.). The silver medalist in the first running of the Rally exhibited all the potential of this jacket and then some.
Arguably the best-looking Type III on the market, this jacket is also one of the most stubborn beasts in the denim world (even at this weight). Not for the faint of heart.
We’re eagerly awaiting the re-release of Iron Heart’s 19 oz. Left-Hand Twill version of the Type III. In Year Two of the Rally, this jacket produced some of the most incredible contrast fades we’ve ever seen. If 14 oz. isn’t heavy enough for you, the LHT is worth waiting for.
Buy Iron Heart from these select retailers: Iron Heart International, Franklin & Poe (US), Division Road (US), Corlection (AU), Brooklyn Clothing (CA).
Few brands can match Brave Star’s track record of beautifully faded jackets. They seem to attract the kinds of lifestyle faders who put the collecting aside and bring all of their attention to one piece at a time, living their wildest life in their selvedge jackets.
The heavy versions of their Ironside jackets thrive when they are treated like this. Every time a faded example rears its head, it brings droves of would-be faders to the Braver Star’s doorstep.
The heavy Ironside is definitely not for the faint-hearted. Long, lean, and mean, it demonstrates all the body-shaping power of the classic Type III.
With its sharp Vs, it flatters a wide range of body shapes, accentuating the chest and shoulders and making the waist appear smaller. Especially in its heavier versions, the jacket looks as though it’s been chiseled out of stone, and it passes its anger and angles on to the wearer.
They offer the jacket in a wide range of weights, but, based on what we’ve seen in the Rally, it’s the heavy jackets that produce the most eye-popping results.
They won’t produce fades like these without being pushed, but they’re more than worth the effort. If you’ve ever wanted that excuse to push your lifestyle limits further than ever before, you’re looking at it.
SOSO 25 oz. Ghost Jacket
With some help from a Redline competitor who works an exceptionally dirty job, SOSO made a big splash in last year’s Rally with a 33 oz. Chore Coat. It was the first time anybody had taken a serious run at a jacket made from SOSO’s insanely heavy Breaker of Legs fabric. The jacket cruised into the Top 20, and many felt that it should have made it into the Top 10.
Since then, SOSO has debuted their 25 oz. Ghost Selvedge, which has rocketed through the ranks to become the brand’s flagship selvedge. Based on what we’ve seen from the denim so far, it will be perfect for heavy denim jackets, with a chore coat or a Type III being obvious choices.
If you’re looking to make a crater-sized impact in this year’s Rally, put this super-heavyweight at the top of your list.
The 25 oz. denim is also available in Ghost Black. Jackets made from SOSO’s 33 oz. Breaker of Legs Selvedge are the heaviest denim jackets on the market. For something on the more conventional side, try their 13.5 oz. Classic Redline.
Momotaro Type II GTB (15.7 oz.)
It seems only appropriate that when you go to battle, you do so in Momotaro’s iconic battle stripes.
The painted stripes around the arm will chip and fade as you put the jacket through its paces. A faded GTB jacket belongs in every serious collector’s wardrobe.
The Type III version of this jacket is also a killer. If you don’t have a Type III yet, you won’t do much better than this one.
Tellason Coverall Jacket (16.5 oz.)
Though Tellason’s Coverall jacket took shape in the twenty-first century, the design cues here are much older.
The newspaper pocket on the chest (remember when people read newspapers?) is large enough to fit a book. Whatever you like to carry with you, you’ll have pockets to spare with this one.
The Coverall Jacket is available in a number of weights and price points, but the 16.5 oz. version is our hands-down favourite. We also highly recommend Tellason’s Type III in the same weight.
Stevenson is sold at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Corlection (AU), Franklin & Poe (US), Clutch Café (UK)
The Flat Head 60s Type III
The Flat Head built their reputation on the back of this Pioneer Denim. The brand’s middleweight workhorse is prized the world over for its high-contrast fade potential and striking vertical texture.
They’ve used the same denim in this jacket, and they’ve kept the design simple. If you’re looking for fades that will grab attention, this denim has about is as good a track record as you can find.
Also worth a look are Flat Head’s Type I and their slim-fitting Type II.
The Flat Head is sold at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Corlection (AU), and Franklin & Poe (US)
Warehouse S2001XX Type I (13.5 oz.)
Vintage reproduction specialists Warehouse & Co. have been seen as the benchmarks of quality in the Japanese scene since the ‘90s. Their Type I is about as close as you can come to a true-blue original.
For those who want (or need) to wash their outerwear frequently, this unsanforized beauty will produce spectacular vintage fades.
We can also recommend Warehouse’s WWII Cowboy Jacket, and their Denim Coverall.
Warehouse is sold at these excellent retailers: Clutch Café (UK), Sun House (JP), Corlection (AU), Lost & Found (CA), Hinoya (JP).
Ruttloff J1-22 (13 oz.)
Johann Ruttloff could go toe to toe with Saville Row tailors. He is a master of the rivet, a virtuoso of the chain stitch.
His most recent off-the-rack release is a denim jacket that draws inspiration from both the Type II and the Type III.
The green-tinted Kuroki denim and the contrasting cognac thread place this jacket in a category of its own.
The jacket is only currently available in small sizes, but big gents can rejoice. Ruttloff’s custom denim garments are his true masterpieces. Contact Johann if you want to join his quick-moving waiting list.
TCB Type I (14 oz.)
A runaway hit in the selvedge scene since their debut, TCB’s no-nonsense approach to vintage style and attractive price point make them an easy choice for those who want to get a lot for a little.
Zimbabwe cotton means that this jacket will quickly become supple, and the generous fit will make it easy to throw over your shoulders.
We can also recommend TCB’s stellar Type III, which sells out exceptionally quickly (another one to keep an eye on and leap at when it is restocked).
Pure Blue Japan 6114 Type III (14 oz.)
Pure Blue Japan don’t mess around. They were one of the first brands to really push denim into truly artisanal territory, and they boast some of the sharpest shears in the game.
Their take on the Type III features slightly smaller-than-usual chest pockets, but this lends the jacket no small amount of charm. Like everything PBJ makes, this denim will fade brilliantly if pushed.
You can buy Mister Freedom at: Franklin & Poe (US), Clutch Café (UK), Hinoya (JP)
Companion Modified Type II (15 oz.)
While Companion’s beautiful custom pieces might be the first thing that most denim collectors think of when they hear the brand’s name, Companion also has a range of off-the-rack pieces, including their modified Type II, which is one of the best off-the-rack jackets out there.
With leather-backed buttons and your choice of a broad range of blanket linings, this jacket is crammed full of luxurious touches that you just won’t find outside of a custom shop.
Companion are best known for their custom pieces. Contact them early if you want your custom piece in time for the Redline Rally.
Big John RARE Jacket (15.5 oz.)
One of Japan’s most slept-on selvedge brands, Big John keeps their long legacy (stretching back further than any other Japanese denim brand) intact with a corner of their sprawling catalogue devoted to well-made selvedge.
Their RARE denim, first introduced in 1980, produces fades that need to be seen to be believed.
For more classic workwear styling and a touch more weight, try Big John’s XXXX Extra Jacket.
Samurai Type I (25 oz.)
The perfect balance of vintage and modern (the legacy brands never made anything approaching this weight), Samurai’s take on the truly classic denim jacket takes the form into new heights.
True to its 1930s inspiration, the jacket is cut high on the body, making it a perfect fit for those who prefer higher-rise jeans. Fast-fading denim will produce stunning contrasts and produce them surprisingly quickly.
A 25 oz. Samurai chore coat won Year 2 of the Rally, so competitors looking for an edge will undoubtedly be looking closely at heavy Samurai jackets like this one for Year 3. Their 25 oz. releases are limited, so they’re not a piece to sleep on.
If you’re looking for a true heirloom piece, Samurai also have a Double Natural Indigo Type II that might be the best-looking version of the ’50s classic on the market.
You can buy Samurai from all of these retailers: Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Blue in Green (US), Redcast Heritage (ES), and Corlection (AU).
Momotaro is stocked by: Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Corlection (AU), Hinoya (JP), Division Road (US)
Oni Type III (16 oz.)
If you want to broadcast the fact that you have a refined taste in denim, this natural indigo Type III will do that in spades. This shade of blue just doesn’t appear but the top shelf of serious stockists.
Oni is best known for their Secret Denim, and for very good reason. They release a range of Secret Denim jackets regularly, but they sell out in a heartbeat. Keep your eye on stockists that carry Oni. They should have some in time for the competition.
Redcast Heritage is the best place to watch for Secret Denim releases. They restock a few times a year.
You can find more Oni products from: Blue in Green (US) and Redcast Heritage (ES), Hinoya (JP)
Stevenson Rough Rider (10.5 oz.)
The Storm Rider, in both its lined and unlined versions, inspired nearly as many loving tributes as the iconic Levi’s jackets.
Stevenson’s recently released Rough Rider, complete with sulphur-dyed grey weft, features a subtle twist on the Storm Rider’s instantly recognizable front placket. Giddyup.
Stevenson’s Linesman Duck Canvas Coverall is also worth a look.
Rogue Territory Supply Jacket (15 oz.)
While the classic denim jacket forms have legions of devotees both old and new, there are plenty of denimheads who want to go their own way and depart from tradition.
Rogue Territory’s Supply Jacket has built up a considerable following as one of the cleanest modern designs out there, and the middleweight denim is primed for stunning fades.
The Supply Jacket looks equally incredible in RGT’s Black Stealth Denim, or you can go with the Bond-approved Waxed Tan Ridgeline.
You can buy Rogue Territory here: Stag Provisions (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Redcast Heritage (ES)
Real McCoy’s Type III (14.5 oz.)
This immaculate and streamlined reproduction of the 1960s Type III gets absolutely everything right. Most importantly, no hand-warmer pockets.
It’s Bryan’s humble opinion that hand-warmer pockets and the Type III shouldn’t mix. For this reason (among many others), one of these is hanging on a hook next to his door.
Type IIIs are a popular choice in the competition. If you’re looking to separate yourself from the field, Real McCoy’s WWII Chore Coat (10 oz.) is definitely worth a look.
Real McCoy’s is available at these retailers: Lost & Found (CA) and Clutch Café (UK)
3sixteen Shadow Selvedge Type III (14.5 oz.)
This is the denim that 3sixteen built their name on, and it’s not hard to see why. It develops sharp contrasts and fades to a vibrant shade of blue.
Corduroy pocket bags and cuff linings add a touch of style and luxury, and the brand’s trademark crossed yoke design at the back makes this a piece that selvedge lovers can identify in a heartbeat. A true modern classic.
3sixteen also offers this jacket in a lighter 12 oz. Shadow Selvedge.
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Can we enter with an indigo leather jacket? I am looking at either a Y2 type Ii or Double Helix.
Leather pieces aren’t eligible for the Rally this year (leather is a whole different ballgame). The closest we can get you to patina is waxed pieces.
This is an awesome resource for raw denim jacket enthusiasts! The level of detail is incredible – from the breakdown of different brands and weights to the contest history and fit advice.
I especially appreciate the fact that they highlight both high-end and more affordable options.
Is there a particular brand or style of raw denim jacket you’re drawn to?