Battleaxes in Blue: The Ultimate Raw Denim Jacket List

Samurai WWII Jacket (17 oz.)

$484 AUD at Corlection

The perfect balance of vintage and modern (the legacy brands never made anything approaching this weight), Samurai’s WWII Jacket is a triple-pleated treasure.

Cut high on the body, this jacket will work best for those who prefer higher-rise jeans. Fast-fading denim means this one will jump out to an early lead.

Samurai also make a slightly lighter Type II and Type III that are every bit as good as their WWII Jacket.

Momotaro Type III GTB (15.7 oz.)

€380 at Momotaro

It seems only appropriate that when you go to battle, you do so in Momotaro’s iconic battle stripes.

The painted stripes around the arm will chip and fade as you put the jacket through its paces. A faded GTB jacket belongs in every serious collector’s wardrobe.

The Type II version of this jacket, which is a little harder to track down, might be even more of a head-turner than the Type III.

Real McCoy’s Type III (14.5 oz.)

$425 at Standard & Strange

This immaculate and streamlined reproduction of the 1960s Type III gets absolutely everything right. Most importantly, no hand-warmer pockets.

It’s Bryan’s humble opinion that hand-warmer pockets and the Type III shouldn’t mix. For this reason (among many others), one of these is hanging on a hook next to his door.

Their Type I in the same 14.5 oz. denim is definitely worth a look, and their WWII Chore Coat (10 oz.) is one of the best light chore coats around.

Oni Secret Denim Coverall Jacket (20 oz.)

€340 at Redcast Heritage

So striking and such a perfect use of Oni’s flagship denim that these are as rare as hen’s teeth. Blink and you’ll miss your chance to pick up a piece of denim history.

The beige and green tones work together brilliantly, and the loosely woven denim will become as soft as butter after a few hundred wears. Worth waiting for.

It won’t last long, but the Type III in the brown-weft Moca Secret Denim will go down in history as an all-time great.

Rogue Territory Supply Jacket (15 oz.)

$275 at Stag Provisions

While the classic denim jacket forms have legions of devotees both old and new, there are plenty of denimheads who want to go their own way and depart from tradition.

Rogue Territory’s Supply Jacket has built up a considerable following as one of the cleanest modern designs out there, and they’re primed for stunning fades.

The Supply Jacket looks equally incredible in RGT’s Black Stealth Denim, or you can go with the Bond-approved Waxed Tan Ridgeline.

Tellason Coverall Jacket (16.5 oz.)

$250 at Tellason

Though Tellason’s Coverall jacket took shape in the twenty-first century, the design cues here are much older.

The newspaper pocket on the chest (remember when people read newspapers?) is large enough to fit a book. Whatever you like to carry with you, you’ll have pockets to spare with this one.

The Coverall Jacket is available in a number of weights and price points. We also highly recommend Tellason’s Type III.

Stevenson Rough Rider (10.5 oz.)

€429 AUD at Corlection

The Storm Rider, in both its lined and unlined versions, inspired nearly as many loving tributes as the iconic Levi’s jackets.

Stevenson’s recently released Rough Rider, complete with sulphur-dyed grey weft, features a subtle twist on the Storm Rider’s instantly recognizable front placket. Giddyup.

Stevenson’s Prairie Indigo Selvage Canvas Chore Coat is also worth a look.

Three Kingdoms Natural Indigo Type III (15.3 oz.)

¥33,000 JPY at Three Kingdoms Overall

Three Kingdoms Overalls don’t make much of an effort to address the market outside of Japan, so their gorgeous pieces are rarely seen in the West.

Their natural indigo Type III, with its large button-down flaps, is a muscular take on the essential style. Best of all, no hand-warmers.

Three Kingdom’s Type II and Type I are equally brilliant.

The Flat Head 60s Type III

$365 at Franklin & Poe

The Flat Head built their reputation on the back of this beautiful denim, prized for its high-contrast fade potential and its vertical texture.

They’ve used the same denim in this jacket, and they’ve kept the design simple. If you’re looking for fades that will grab attention, this is as good as you can get.

Also worth a look are Flat Head’s 12 oz. Type I and their slim-fitting Type II.

Warehouse S2000XX WWII Jacket (13.5 oz.)

£415 at Clutch Café

Vintage reproduction specialists Warehouse & Co. have been seen as the benchmarks of quality in the Japanese scene since the ‘90s. Their WWII Type I is based on the pared-down jackets produced during wartime.

For those who want (or need) to wash their outerwear frequently, this unsanforized beauty will produce spectacular vintage fades.

We can also recommend Warehouse’s WWII Cowboy Jacket, and their Type I.

Ruttloff J1-22 (13 oz.)

€425 at Ruttloff

Johann Ruttloff could go toe to toe with Saville Row tailors. He is a master of the rivet, a virtuoso of the chain stitch.

His most recent off-the-rack release is a denim jacket that draws inspiration from both the Type II and the Type III.

The green-tinted Kuroki denim and the contrasting cognac thread place this jacket in a category of its own.

Ruttloff’s custom garments are his true masterpieces. Contact Johann if you want to join his quick-moving waiting list.

Companion Cone Denim Tribute (14.75 oz.)

€295 at Companion Denim

While Companion’s beautiful custom pieces might be the first thing that most denim collectors think of when they hear the brand’s name, Companion also has a range of off-the-rack pieces, including this stunning Cone Mills Tribute jacket.

At this price point, this represents a great opportunity to slide your arms into something made by one of Europe’s premier denim ateliers. 

We can also recommend Companion’s Ecru Nevada Jacket, but Companion’s best pieces are custom-made. Contact them early if you want your custom piece in time for the Redline Rally. 

Ginew Thunderbird (12 oz.)

$385 at Ginew

This denim may be primed for beautiful fades, but few are willing to get one of these dirty enough to bring out the light blues locked beneath the surface.

The embroidery under the collar and the concealed chain-stitched thunderbird at the cuff, which will reveal itself slowly as the jacket ages, mark this piece as something truly special. This isn’t just a jacket. It’s a legend in the making.

We can also recommend Ginew’s simpler Shop Jacket.

Big John RARE Jacket (15.5 oz.)

¥39,600 JPY at Hinoya

One of Japan’s most slept-on selvedge brands, Big John keeps their long legacy (longer than any other Japanese denim brand) intact with a corner of their sprawling catalogue devoted to well-made selvedge.

Their RARE denim, first introduced in 1980, produces fades that need to be seen to be believed.

For more classic workwear styling and a touch more weight, try Big John’s XXXX Extra Jacket.

TCB Type II (13.5 oz.)

€225 at Redcast Heritage

A runaway hit in the selvedge scene since their debut, TCB’s no-nonsense approach to vintage style and attractive price point make them an easy choice for those who want to get a lot for a little.

Zimbabwe cotton means that this jacket will quickly become supple and soft, and the paper patch will crumble with wear and washing.

We can also recommend TCB’s Type I and their stellar Type III.

3sixteen Shadow Selvedge Type III (14.5 oz.)

$285 at Self Edge

This is the denim that 3sixteen built their name on, and it’s not hard to see why. It develops sharp contrasts and fades to a vibrant shade of blue.

Corduroy pocket bags and cuff linings add a touch of style and luxury, and the brand’s trademark crossed yoke design at the back makes this a piece that selvedge lovers can identify in a heartbeat. A true modern classic.

3sixteen also offers this jacket in a lighter 12 oz. Shadow Selvedge.

Blaumann Denim Jacke (15 oz.)

€309 at Blaumann

Last, but certainly not least, Blaumann’s Denim Jacket is perfect for those who are unsure whether they want button-down flaps or open patch pockets.

Made from sturdy 15 oz. Japanese denim, this jacket is built like a tank. Broad-shouldered and thick-trunked, it won’t be pushed over easily.

Blaumann might not include your country among its shipping options. Email them and they’ll make the necessary arrangements.