So So Good: The Best Fade-Primed SOSO Denim

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Join the SOSO Crew and Compete in a Class of Your Own

When SOSO joined us as our very first sponsor for Year One of the Indigo Invitational, they were still a young brand. In the process of fine-tuning some of their products (particularly their monstrous 33 oz. denim), they understood as well as any brand in this space how fades can move mountains.

They used the first year of the competition to showcase the fade potential of their fabrics, and they racked up some hardware, with a Top 10 finish and two truly spectacular pairs that got honourable mentions.

The combination of SOSO’s made-to-fade denims and competitive faders was electric. Together, they put SOSO on the fade map in a big way, and they’ve had a huge footprint in the competitive fade scene ever since.

In the first year of the Redline Rally, they repeated the trick with their shirts and jackets. Once again, they appeared in the Top 10, with the added distinction of being the only shirt to make it into the winner’s circle.

Armed with indigo iron, you’ll be ready to hit the track. After that long front straight, you’ll be ready to dive into that first corner, twist the throttle and drop a knee and feel that rush of acceleration. You may not be the fastest thing on two wheels, but the road will go on and on forever.

Unlike other brands we’ve featured in our buying guides, SOSO is primarily a made-to-measure clothier, so rather than highlighting specific pieces, we’re going to look at some of the best made-to-fade fabrics in their lineup. As for what you do with these fabrics, the sky’s the limit. 

You can keep things conservative with a heritage-infused workwear classic, or you can head west with their recently updated western shirt designs (including smile pockets). You can strip your piece down to the bare essentials, or you can pile on the bells and whistles. 

Every design can be either tweaked or entirely overhauled to suit your unique shape and style. If you’ve got ridiculously long arms (or short ones), a barrel-shaped chest (or a concave one), or if your tastes are on the eccentric side, SOSO should be your first port of call.Keep the fabrics below in mind when looking at your options, but remember that these aren’t the only eligible options. If you have any questions about a fabric’s eligibility for the Rally, reach out to us here.

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Navy Blue Sashiko (12 oz.)

We’ve put this one at the top of the list because it simply cries out to be worn for a full 365. Nail the fit and this will be easier to put on than take off. The break-in period is measurable in days, not months, and when it starts to produce fades, it will become an indispensable (and gorgeous) part of your wardrobe.

This fabric might also be the most versatile fabric on this list. It could serve well for a light jacket (perhaps a chore coat), but it’s really in its element as a shirt. The fabric wants the spotlight, so keep things simple with tonal stitching and dark fasteners. 

The texture of the sashiko will create abrasion on the surface (particularly around the elbows and armpits), so you should be looking at some stunning fade patterns by the end of the year. That said, sashiko does not produce the same level of eye-catching contrasts as denim, so the fabrics below might be a better choice if you’re going for the gold.

SOSO’s sashiko is also available in Emerald Green.

Green Cast Denim (12.5 oz.)

SOSO is perhaps best known for their heavy offerings, which we’ll be turning to these below. Their stables include some rip-snorting clydesdales, but there are a few nimble ponies in there as well, and they’re ready to hit the track. They’ll get up to speed quickly and cruise through the corners.

We’re big fans of this light-middleweight Green Cast Denim. Even before it begins to fade, it provides a nice touch of contrast when combined with other denim pieces. With wear and washing, this contrast becomes even more pronounced.

At this weight, the shirt should remain wearable for most of the year either as a layering piece or against the skin in the summer months. Don’t be afraid of washing it. This one is primed for vintage fades, so work yourself into a lather on the track and then throw it in the wash. It’ll just keep getting better and better.

For a similar weight, try the Japanese Kaihara Double Black.

Dirty Harry Clay Blue Overdyed (16.5 oz.)

SOSO’s Dirty Harry selvedge had already been making a strong case for itself as one of the best brown denims around when the SOSO Brothers had a brilliant idea. They threw a few shades of blue into the mix, and we can’t get enough of the colour that has resulted. 

The warp yarns are Dirty Harry brown, but overdyed blue; the weft yarns are a more conventional white yarn that’s been dyed a deep shade of blue. The result is a warp that will fade to brown and a weft that will fade to white. Colour us intrigued.

While they’re not entirely sure how this brand-new denim will look like when it’s faded, it’s sure to be an intoxicating mixture of blues, contrasting browns, and a dash of white for good measure. It’s a restless colour that changes radically depending on how it’s lit. It’s an enigma wrapped around a riddle with a mystery at its core. 

At this weight, we’re recommending this fabric for a jacket, but, as you can see below, it does look exceptionally good as a western. It’s a bold choice no matter how you cut it.

Purple Haze Deep Indigo Slub (18 oz.)

We’ve seen some of this Purple Haze in this year’s Indigo Invitational, and Logan Fleming (aka @_smokinlogan_) has pushed his double-knee pair to its breaking point. At the halfway point of the competition, the pair already looked like it’d been in a bloody-knuckles brawl.

The purple weft is bleeding through in a few places, and you can see rich blue tones beneath the thick layer of dirt and grime that Logan has accumulated. The denim is clearly tough enough to take just about anything you can throw at it in stride, but the purple weft gives it a playful side.

It’s this playfulness that’s earned it a spot on this list. If you’ve got a colourful personality, or if you fancy yourself something of a joker, put this one at the top of your list. Add purple threads to really put this one over the top.

For an even more bonkers weft, try SOSO’s lightweight Candy Weft Denim.

Taishoku Japanese Redline (25 oz.)

SOSO’s 25 oz. denims have produced legendary results in the fade scene, though most of the results we’ve seen have been of the below-the-belt variety. Not everybody has the courage to slip super-heavyweight denim over their shoulders, but we’re hoping that at least a few competitors are up to the challenge this year.

This Taishoku Japanese Redline is primed for some serious contrasts. Taishoku means “fades” in Japanese, so the SOSO Brothers are really putting their stamp on this one. The indigo hasn’t penetrated very deeply into the thick yarns, so you can expect some serious honeycombs to begin emerging within a few months of steady wear.

Granted, those first few months will be a bit of a struggle, but a fully faded jacket made from 25 oz. denim will be a true prize (one that’ll probably last you a lifetime).

The World’s Heaviest Jacket (33 oz.)

For the bravest of the brave, SOSO’s 33 oz. selvedge is the ultimate challenge weight. The first time sliding it on will feel like donning body armour. While it won’t stop a speeding bullet, it is thick enough to save your hide if you have a high-speed run-in with some asphalt.

Having broken in a pair of SOSO’s 33 oz. jeans, I can say that this denim is surprisingly comfortable. It never lets you forget that you’re wearing double-weight denim, but after a few dozen wears, it begins to move with you rather than fight you at every turn. It’s really a remarkable fabric–far more wearable than I expected. That said, this one is definitely not for casual faders.

To make a serious dent in denim this heavy, you’re going to need to throw everything you’ve got at it. If you wear through denim jackets more than you collect them, this one might suit you right down to the ground. If you baby your pieces, something in the middleweight range will produce better results for you.

Got Your SOSO Piece? Register for the Redline!

SOSO was the first sponsor of the Indigo Invitational and the Redline Rally. They have been our most consistent and ardent supporters, and we want to show our appreciation by putting together a deep squad of SOSO faders for this year’s Redline Rally.

The Redline Rally is a year-long fade competition. There is no better way to generate above-the-belt fades than joining the Rally. Year Two kicked off on January 1, 2023.

Like the Indigo Invitational, the Rally helps you move one piece to the center of your rotation and do some real damage. Even slow faders produce results if they stick with the program.


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