9 Tips to Help You Get the Raw Denim Fades You’ve Always Wanted
Back in 2008, when I got my first job selling selvedge jeans, I started learning everything I could about raw denim and why it fades. A few years later, I launched this site to share what I was discovering.
One of the questions I still get all the time is, “How do you get great fades?” The short answer: there’s no magic trick. Just good habits and patience.
The 9 tips in this guide will help you get the best fades possible from your raw denim jeans.
But first—make sure you’re starting with the right kind of denim. You need something made to fade. If you haven’t already ticked that box, visit our buying guides.
TL;DR — Quick Summary
Want fades that turn heads? Focus on these:
- Start with the right denim: Raw, ring-spun, unwashed selvedge.
- Soak before wear: Softens denim and helps it last longer.
- Wear daily: No rotations. One pair only.
- Delay washing: Go 100+ wears if you can.
- Wash carefully: Inside out, gentle method, no tumble drying.
- Repair early: Fix blowouts before they spread.
Scroll down for full tips—or explore our denim care guides.
If you’re new to raw denim, you might have questions. What is raw denim? What is selvedge? You can find the answers to these and many more in our Denim Encyclopedia.
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Tip #1: Choose Raw, Ring-Spun Selvedge Denim for the Best Fades
Start with raw, unwashed selvedge denim. One-washed denim is fine, but if you want sharp, high-contrast fades, unwashed is the way to go.
Before you buy, make sure you can say yes to both:
1) Is it selvedge denim?
Look for self-finished edges on the outseam—that’s your visual cue. Selvedge denim is woven on shuttle looms, which adds texture and depth to fades.
If you’re unsure, check out our what is selvedge denim guide.
2) Is the yarn ring spun?
Ring-spun yarns trap the indigo on the surface while keeping the core white. That contrast is what gives you fades with punch.
If the product description doesn’t say, ask the seller. Most good raw denim is ring-spun—but not all.
📘 Learn more in our Denim Encyclopedia entry on ring-spinning.
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Tip #2: Soak Before First Wear to Set Up Strong Raw Denim Fades
Soaking raw denim is a strongly debated topic among raw denim aficionados. Some swear by it; others would never ever do it.
I recommend doing it—especially if you’re aiming for strong fades and longer garment life.
A cold water soak (just water, no detergent) softens the denim slightly, helps it mould to your body, and sets the creases before fading begins. It also tightens up the fabric, which reduces the risk of premature blowouts.
This is especially important for unsanforized denim (aka shrink-to-fit). But even sanforized jeans benefit from a soak—it helps remove starch and ease the break-in. You’ll lose very little indigo, and the durability gain is worth it.
Want to see exactly how? Follow my step-by-step guide to hand soaking raw denim.
Tip #3: Wear Your Jeans Hard and Often for High-Contrast Fades
This one’s obvious—but essential. If you want fades, you’ve got to wear the jeans. Often. Hard.
The more you move, bend, stretch and sweat in them, the more the indigo will rub off in high-stress zones—especially at the knees, thighs, pockets and behind the knees.
Wear them for chores, walks, weekend trips, errands. Make them your everyday pair. Just skip the gym—they’ll fade fast, sure, but the salt and stress will push you toward a wash (or blowout) sooner than you’d like.
Need a refresher on how denim fades and why? Check our FAQ guide to fading and washing raw denim.
Tip #4: Postpone Washing to Deepen Creases and Maximise Contrast
If high-contrast fades are your goal, hold off on washing as long as you reasonably can—typically every 2–3 months, assuming daily wear.
But denim gets dirty. Life happens. Before you throw your jeans in the wash, try this:
- Air them out. Hang your jeans outside in dry, breezy weather. Fresh air and sunlight (inside out!) help remove odours naturally.
- Spot clean. Dab small stains with a damp cloth or soft brush. Let mud dry, then brush off gently. No scrubbing!
Need to wash them anyway? Learn how to do it right in our hand-washing guide or machine-washing guide.
Looking for Your Next Pair of Jeans?
Our Buying Guides help you find the best raw and selvedge denim—whether you’re after fit, weight, or where it’s made. Less guesswork. Better jeans.
Explore the full archive here: Browse All Buying Guides
Tip #5: Stick to One Pair to Stay Focused and Build Better Fades
Consistency is everything. If you want great fades, stick to one pair of jeans.
Wearing the same pair every day sets deep creases and builds contrast. Rotating between multiple pairs spreads the wear—and slows your progress.
Not easy? Make it a challenge. Track your streak. Store your other jeans away for a while. Keep one backup pair for emergencies.
The more you wear one pair, the faster you’ll see those whiskers and honeycombs come to life.
Tip #6: Wash Smart (and Infrequently) to Protect Raw Denim Fades
If your goal is high-contrast fades, hold off on the washes. It’s not the only approach—and it’s perfectly fine to wash more frequently—but washing too early or too often softens the contrast and slows fade definition.
My recommendation? Always soak before the first wear. Even if the denim is sanforised, a simple water-only soak helps soften the fabric, remove starch, and reduce early breakage.
After that, try to wear your jeans 100 times before washing. Then, stretch out the time between washes—at least a few months if you can.
When it’s time to wash:
- Straighten them out to avoid fade lines.
- Turn the jeans inside out.
- Skip the spin cycle.
- Hang to dry (never tumble dry).
Want full control? Hand washing is the gentlest method. Use lukewarm water if you want some shrinkage; cold if you don’t.
Light-, Mid- or Heavyweight Denim?
Raw denim has turned weight watching on its head. Heavyweight denim is a hit, and for some, it’s become all about how heavy you can go.
But heavyweight denim isn’t for everyone. A nice pair of midweight denim jeans will be the perfect middle ground for most. In warmer weather, a lightweight denim will also do wonders.
Tip #7: Hang Dry Only—Never Tumble Dry Your Raw Denim
Never tumble dry raw denim—especially if you’re chasing high-contrast fades. The heat sets in creases and speeds up indigo loss in ways you can’t control.
Instead, take your jeans out of the wash right away and hang them up. Indoors is fine. Outdoors is better (just avoid direct sun if you’re keeping them dark). Straighten them by hand while damp to help lock in the shape.
Some faders wear their jeans damp to stretch specific areas, but that can lead to knee bags. Unless you know what you’re doing, let them dry completely before putting them back on.
More tips in our Denim Care guides.
Tip #8: Repair Blowouts Early to Extend Fading Potential
If you wear your jeans every day and wear them hard, they’ll eventually start to break down—especially at high-friction spots like the crotch or behind the knees.
Blowouts often start small. Catch them early and you’ll avoid larger, more expensive repairs later. Whether you fix them yourself with sashiko stitching or bring them to a tailor, the key is not to wait.
🧵 Pro tip: Wash your jeans before bringing them in for repair. Tailors (and friends) will thank you.
Tip #9: Use Starch Carefully to Sharpen Whiskers and Honeycombs
This one’s controversial—even among seasoned denimheads.
Starching your jeans helps keep the denim stiff. That stiffness increases stress in high-friction areas, which in turn can intensify fades. Whiskers and honeycombs set in deeper and sharper.
But be warned: this is a “use at your own risk” method. Starching doesn’t work for everyone, and it walks a fine line between natural and artificial fading.
If you’re competing in a fade contest, skip the starch—it’s usually frowned upon or outright banned.
How to Use Starch (If You Do)
- Use spray starch (available at most supermarkets or online).
- Apply lightly and evenly to clean, damp jeans.
- Let the jeans air dry completely before wearing.
- Don’t overdo it—too much starch can lead to cracking, especially in heavy creased areas.
Bottom line:
Starch is optional. Use it if you’re chasing contrast and know the risks. Avoid it if you’re a fade purist or entering a competition like the Indigo Invitational.
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