How to Buy Raw Denim Online Without Expensive Mistakes

Where to Buy Raw Denim (overview) » About Shopping Online

Measurements, Shrinkage, Duties, Returns, and Everything Else You Need to Know

Buying raw denim online gives you access to far more brands, fits, and fabrics than most local shops can offer. Some of the best denim brands in the world are only available through a handful of specialist retailers, scattered across the globe.

But raw denim isn’t like most clothing. Sizes vary from brand to brand, some fabrics shrink significantly, and a pair that looks like a bargain can quickly become expensive once shipping, duties, taxes, and return costs are added.

Fortunately, most of these problems are easy to avoid. A little research before you buy can save you from ordering the wrong size, misunderstanding shrinkage, or getting caught out by unexpected import fees and restrictive return policies.

This guide is part of my series on where to buy the best raw denim. Here, I walk you through what to check before you order online, from measurements and shrinkage to shipping and returns.

Don’t Look at Size, Look at Measurements

The size on the tag is often the least useful piece of information when buying raw denim online.

A tagged size 32 from one brand can measure very differently from a size 32 from another brand. Even within the same brand, different fits are cut with different proportions through the waist, rise, thigh, knee, and hem.

That’s why experienced denim buyers compare the actual measurements of a pair they’re considering with a pair they already own and like.

And to be clear, these are garment measurements, not body measurements. The measured waist of the jeans will usually be smaller than your actual waist because denim stretches, curves around your body, and sits under tension when worn.

It’s also worth noting that a lower-rise pair sits on your hips, where you’re usually wider, while a higher-rise pair sits closer to your natural waist.

The good news is that most specialist denim retailers provide detailed measurements for every size they stock, and many will even measure specific pairs on request.

If you’re not already comparing measurements, it’s the single habit that will do the most to improve your success rate when buying raw denim online.

How to Measure Jeans for Comparison

The easiest way to buy raw denim online is to start with a pair of jeans you already own and like. Measure those jeans, then compare the numbers to the retailer’s measurements.

Most specialist retailers use similar methods, although there are small variations. The important thing is to understand how the specific retailer measures and compare like with like.

Here are the measurements that matter most:

Waist – Align the front and back of the waistband, pull it taut, measure straight across, then double the number.

Front rise – Measure from the crotch seam straight up to the top of the front waistband.

Back rise – Measure from the crotch seam to the top of the rear waistband.

Thigh – Measure straight across from the crotch seam, perpendicular to the outseam.

Knee – Measure straight across the leg, typically 35 cm below the crotch seam.

Hem – Measure straight across the leg opening.

Inseam – Measure from the crotch seam to the leg opening, following the inside seam.

Once you know these numbers for a pair that fits you well, buying raw denim online becomes much less of a guessing game.

Check ‘How We Measure’, Not Just Size Charts

Once you’ve measured a pair of jeans that already fits you well, the next step is understanding how the retailer measures the jeans they sell.

Measurements are only useful when you’re comparing like with like. One shop may measure the waist pulled flat. Another may follow the waistband curve. One may measure the thigh from the crotch seam; another may measure slightly lower. None of this is necessarily wrong, but it changes the numbers.

Some retailers use brand-provided size charts. That’s better than guessing, but it means the method may vary from brand to brand. The best specialist retailers measure the jeans themselves, using the same method across the shop.

That consistency is what you should be looking for. Before comparing numbers, check the retailer’s measurement guide and make sure you understand how they got them.

And if you’re unsure, ask. Good denim retailers are used to sizing questions, and shops like Redcast Heritage, Iron Shop Provisions, Blue Owl, and Rivet & Hide will often help you compare measurements or check details before you order.

Understand Shrinkage Before You Buy

Before you order, make sure you understand whether the denim has already been shrunk.

Unwashed means the jeans have not been washed after sewing. They can be made from either sanforized or unsanforized denim, so “unwashed” alone does not tell you how much they will shrink.

Unsanforized denim has not been pre-shrunk through sanforization. If it is both unsanforized and unwashed, it can shrink significantly when soaked or washed—sometimes up to around 10%.

One-wash usually means the jeans have already been washed once by the brand or factory. That takes out most of the shrinkage, even if the denim itself was unsanforized before washing.

Shrink-to-fit is the consumer-facing term for denim that will shrink noticeably the first time it is soaked or washed. It is usually unsanforized, but the exact amount of shrinkage varies from brand to brand.

The practical point is simple: don’t guess. Before buying, check whether the jeans are sanforized, unsanforized, one-wash, or shrink-to-fit—and ask the retailer if you’re unsure.

This matters even more if you plan to hem the jeans before wearing or washing them.

Don’t Blindly Trust Community Reviews

Community reviews can be super useful when you’re researching a specific pair. Reddit, Styleforum, Heddels, YouTube, and fade competitions like the Indigo Invitational can show you how a fabric fades, stretches, softens, and behaves after months of wear.

Where they’re less useful is sizing.

Someone else’s perfect fit is not your perfect fit. Their body, posture, style preference, break-in routine, and tolerance for tight jeans may be completely different from yours.

Use community reviews to understand the fabric and long-term wear. Use measurements, retailer advice, and your own reference jeans to choose the size.

Buy Local When It Makes Sense

You don’t need to buy directly from Japan to get great Japanese denim.

In many cases, buying from a retailer in your own region makes more sense. Shipping is often cheaper, delivery is faster, returns are cheaper if you’re responsible for that cost, and you’re less likely to be surprised by customs charges or import fees.

That doesn’t mean you should never order internationally. Sometimes a specific fit, fabric, or brand is only available from a particular retailer. But before placing an overseas order, it’s worth checking whether a reputable shop closer to home stocks the same jeans.

Start with the regional retailer guides below. You may find exactly what you’re looking for without the extra cost and complexity of an international order.

• North America’s top denim retailers
• A guide to raw denim shops in Europe
• The best places to buy denim in Asia-Pacific

Who Covers Duties, Taxes, and Shipping?

A pair of jeans that looks cheaper can easily become more expensive once shipping, duties, taxes, and other fees are added.

This is especially important when you’re buying from outside your own country, customs union, or trade area. For example, an EU customer ordering from Japan, the UK, or the US may face import VAT, customs duties, and carrier handling fees when the package arrives.

Many retailers now offer DDP (Delivered Duty Paid) shipping, which means duties and taxes are collected at checkout. Others ship DDU (Delivered Duty Unpaid), meaning you’ll pay any charges separately before delivery.

Some retailers make it easy for you. Redcast Heritage covers duties on US orders, Iron Shop Provisions offers flat-rate worldwide shipping with duties included, and Hinoya prepays duties and taxes for many international markets. That kind of clarity can make a big difference when you’re comparing prices across regions.

Neither approach is necessarily better, but you should know which one you’re getting. Unexpected fees are one of the most common frustrations when buying raw denim internationally.

Also remember that taxes and fees are often calculated on more than just the price of the jeans. Depending on where you live, VAT or sales tax may be applied to the product, the shipping cost, customs duties, and even the carrier’s handling or brokerage fees.

Before you order, check the retailer’s shipping page and return policy. A few minutes of research can save you from an expensive surprise later.

Know the Return Policy Before You Buy

Check the return policy as carefully as the size chart. 

Not all retailers handle returns the same way. Some shops offer refunds, while others offer exchanges or store credit. Return windows can be short, especially for international orders, and you’ll often be responsible for return shipping.

In some countries, consumer laws give you additional rights when buying online. EU consumers, for example, generally have 14 days to return most online purchases, though exemptions apply. Check both the retailer’s policy and the rules where you live.

Sale items are commonly final sale, so they can’t be returned, and hemmed jeans are usually also non-returnable. That matters because chain-stitch hemming is tempting when you order, but it can remove your option to send the jeans back if the fit is wrong.

The rule is simple: don’t hem, soak, wash, or wear the jeans until you’re sure they fit and you’re keeping them.

Buy From Shops That Know Their Products

I’ve worked in raw denim retail since 2008, and even though online shopping has come a long way since then, I still believe you get the best experience by walking into a physical shop and trying on the jeans.

But if you want a specific brand or fit that your local denim store doesn’t have, the best online denim retailers come surprisingly close to that in-person experience.

They provide detailed measurements, good product photos (maybe even videos), useful descriptions, fit advice, and customer service from people who actually understand raw denim.

If you’re unsure about sizing, shrinkage, fit, or how a fabric behaves, ask before you order. A good shop will usually help you compare measurements, explain the difference between sizes, or even measure a specific pair.

That kind of support is one of the main reasons to buy from a specialist retailer rather than a general fashion shop. It can save you the cost and hassle of a return, but more importantly, and help you get the right jeans the first time.

Buy Without Guesswork

Shopping raw denim online isn’t difficult. The problem is that guessing can get expensive.

Measure first, understand the fabric, check the shipping and return policies, and buy from knowledgeable retailers when you need help. A little research before checkout saves a lot of frustration afterwards.

Find the Right Shop

I’ve been running Denimhunters since 2011, and I’ve built a series of retailer guides to help you find the best places to buy raw and selvedge denim around the world.

The series includes these guides:

• The Best Shops Worldwide (overview)
• The Best Shops in North America
• The Best Shops in Europe
• The Best Shops in Asia-Pacific

Where to Buy Raw Denim (overview) » About Shopping Online