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Slimming and Stylish, High-Rise Jeans Can Radically Transform Your Selvedge Style
For the better part of two decades, low-slung pairs have dominated my collection. This changed when I finally bit the bullet and got a pair of generously cut, high-rise selvedge jeans from Ruttloff.
Suddenly, I was able to pair my jeans with dressier shirts, which only look right when tucked into high waistbands. But even with untucked looks, the pair was a revelation.
All of those shorter shirts that had languished at the back of my closet suddenly made perfect sense.
Short tees finally covered my belt, and I was finally able to unbutton the bottom button on all my vests.
Why High-Rise Jeans Make Sense for Most Body Types
Larger men have long understood the slimming properties of higher-rise pairs, but their benefits are not reserved for the portly.
The higher waistband neatly bisects the body into highly pleasing proportions, highlighting long and slim legs and shortening long torsos.
If, like me, you’ve found something that works for you in lower-rise pairs and stuck with it, you might find one of the pairs below a revelation. At the very least, it’ll add a little bit of variety to your selvedge collection.
Be aware that, because higher-rise pairs sit higher on the hips, this may affect your waist size. Read the measurement charts carefully and, to make sure you’re getting the right size, double-check your waist measurements with a measuring tape.
Visit our men’s jeans fit guide for more tips for buying jeans that fit you.
READY TO PICK A PAIR?
Where I’d Start Looking for Good Denim
I built this site to help you find good jeans worth wearing. If you’re ready to buy, these are the brands I’d point you to first—Thomas, founder of Denimhunters.
- Iron Heart — The benchmark for heavyweight denim: overengineered and designed to handle years of hard wear.
- Indigofera — A personal favourite, built around proprietary Japanese denims that reward long wear with true character.
- Tellason — California-made jeans built around timeless workwear principles and long-term consistency.
- Brave Star — Honest, American-made selvedge jeans at prices that make raw denim accessible.
- Weirloom — My own brand, built from everything I’ve learned running this site.
Warehouse 1001XX (13.5 oz.)
We’re leading off with the undisputed kings of clean, long-legged vintage cuts: Warehouse and Co. With immaculate craftsmanship and breathtaking denims, Warehouse pairs can be found in the collections of discerning denimheads worldwide.
The 1001XX is a stitch-perfect reproduction of the Levi’s 501 produced in either 1947 or 1953 (depending on the model). The denim is a result of a literally microscopic analysis of a deadstock Levi’s banner from the period. It’s as close as you can come to the real thing without a time machine.
A pair of these took home the bronze medal in Year Three of the Indigo Invitational, and they might be the best combination of vintage and contrast fading that we’ve ever seen in the competition. Why we don’t see more competitors wearing this brand is an enduring mystery.
Despite their popularity, these pairs are released in relatively small numbers by Warehouse. If they’re not in stock, sign up to get notified when they return. They’re worth the wait. Be aware that unwashed versions of this pair will shrink between 5-8% when you wash them for the first time.
Warehouse is at Lost & Found (CA), Hinoya (JP), and Clutch Café (UK).
TCB ‘50s Regular Straight (13.5 oz.)
One of the many TCB pairs that retailers can’t keep on their shelves, TCB’s generously cut ‘50s Regular Straight is the near-perfect three-way collision of comfort, style, and value. A bargain at any price, they fly out the door in a hurry everywhere they’re stocked.
The unfussy lightweight selvedge is designed to be used and abused. Wear it, wash it, even throw it in the dryer if you like (we don’t recommend this, but they do). They fade beautifully to a butter soft pair the colour of a cloudy sky on a summer’s day.
Contrasts won’t come easy with this pair, but you can expect glorious all-over fades and roping at the chain-stitched hems. A great pair for those who want to get a lot without spending a lot.
Iron Heart 888 (14-25 oz.)
The slimmest pair on this list, this will be a great choice for those with slimmer legs who don’t want to push the envelope with wider-legged fits.
Roomy in the top block, the pair tapers gently from the knee to the cuff. Stylish and highly adaptable, the cut flatters a wide range of body shapes. For bigger men, the ample top block and generously cut thighs will be a perfect mixture of style and comfort.
Iron Heart offers the 888 in a range of denims from 14 oz. all the way up to their super heavyweight 25 oz. selvedge. If you’re looking for a little more room, you can try their 1955 cut. If you want something even slimmer, try their 555 (both of these cuts feature a similar rise to the 888).
Indigofera Kain (14 oz.)
This brand new fit from Sweden’s hometown heroes features a sky-high rise and a graceful straight leg that cries out to be paired with slip-on boots. Though it’s not the widest leg in the Indigofera line-up (that’d be the Kirk), it’s our favourite among their higher-rise offerings.
The Kain is available in a rotating range of denims, but we’re particularly fond of this one in the neppy selvedge pictured below. Milled in Japan (of course), this 14 oz. selvedge is absolutely dripping with texture. Pair it with a tucked in tee for a classic 1950s vibe.
The denim is sanforized but unwashed. Wear them for at least a few months before washing them in cold water. The first wash should see them spring back to the size they were when you bought them.
Full Count 0105 (13.7 oz.)
One of the fits that made Full Count’s name synonymous with Japanese denim in the ‘90s, the 0105 was updated recently to give the wearer more room in the seat and thighs. The fit, renamed the 1953 Cut, is everything a generously cut high-rise pair should be.
The arcuates also disappeared in the update, which might not tickle your fancy if you’re a fan of embellished back pockets. For our money, though, the pared-down pairs are an improvement over the original.
The selvedge denim, woven in Japan, is made with Zimbabwe cotton. The lightweight denim is incredibly comfortable, but don’t let its softness fool you. It’s got a heart of iron and can definitely go the distance.
The Guy Who Built This Site Has Launched a Brand!
It’s called Weirloom, and the new WL#1 Regular Fit jeans are complete with a leather patch, branded buttons, and a new woven label. Learn more and buy a pair here.
Freenote Modesto (11-16 oz.)
The Modesto is a very recent addition for Freenote, and we think they’ve knocked this high-rise fit out of the park. Made in the United States from Japanese selvedge, the pair is an immaculate fusion of East and West.
The acorn-shaped back pockets definitely pull this pair decidedly towards the West. Stylish, vintage-inspired details like this are what helped put Freenote on the map, and they remain a top choice for those looking to stand out from the pack.
Available in a range of denims, but we’re partial to the 16 oz. selvedge, which has the potential to produce either high-contrast or vintage fades. The 16 oz. selvedge also has a slight green cast to it that will become more apparent as the jeans age.
Mister Freedom Californian Lot 64 (12-16 oz.)
Brought to you by the king of Southwest Americana, Christophe Loiron, the Californian Lot 64 are the result of the longstanding partnership between Japan’s Sugar Cane and California’s Mister Freedom.
With just a touch of taper, the jeans fall gracefully from waist down to the cuffs. With the brand’s trademark M’s on the pockets and a cowhide patch on the right pocket, they look as good going as they do coming.
We’re particularly fond of these jeans in the 16 oz. middleweight selvedge, but Mister Freedom jeans look and feel incredible at any weight. As fans of the brand will tell you, Christophe Loiron just doesn’t miss.
Denime 220XX (14 oz.)
The second-oldest member of the Osaka Five, Denime started producing faithful reproductions of vintage Levi’s pairs in the late ‘80s. The swelling enthusiasm for these reproductions helped put Japanese denim on the map in the ‘90s and ‘00s.
A pair with an impeccable pedigree, Denime’s jeans will get you deep nods of appreciation in the right circles. This is a pair (and a label) for those who’ve been around the block a few times.
Warehouse and Co. now handle production for some of Denime’s most iconic products (including the 220XX), so this pair is made to Warehouse’s exceptionally high standard. Like the true-blue classics, they are unsanforized, so expect them to shrink a considerable amount the first time you wash them.
A New Medium Wide Straight (16-20 oz.)
Iron Shop Provisions recently introduced their in-house brand, A New Medium, and we were immediately struck by the two pairs of jeans they developed for the line. Cut and sewn in the USA, the pairs feature a generous fit that sits high on the waist, neatly bisecting the body.
They released the pair in two denims, both milled in Japan. Both denims are raw and unwashed, so you can expect them to shrink a considerable amount when you introduce them to water for the first time. It’s our advice to size up, but you’ll want to check with Iron Shop Provisions, who should have precise info on how much shrink you can expect from these denims.
Studio D’Artisan SD-909 G3 (14 oz.)
Another brown-wefted beauty from an Osaka Five brand, Studio D’Artisan’s SD-909 features denim woven on the Toyoda G3 loom, the first selvedge loom produced in Japan. Only one mill in Japan still has operational Toyoda G3s, so this denim is as rare as it is beautiful.
Thanks to its strong taper from the knee down, the SD-909 will be a great choice for those who want a high rise and a generous top block and thighs but don’t want to be swimming in wide cuffs. An excellent mixture of modern and traditional.
The denim is unsanforized and unwashed, so expect at least a full size of shrinkage with this pair. Read the measurement chart carefully. Like all unsanforized denims, we recommend that you soak the pair before wearing them.
Buzz Rickson’s WWII Waist Overalls (13.6 oz.)
Best known for their meticulous reproductions of Army, Navy, and Airforce classics, Buzz Rickson’s can go toe to toe with selvedge brands—particularly when it comes to perfectly authentic period pieces.
Another pair based on the jeans produced during WWII, when the American government imposed strict material-saving restrictions on manufacturers, the WWII Waist Overalls feature period-correct details like iron rivets (instead of the usual copper) and a rivetless coin pocket.
There is some discrepancy between the tagged waist size and the waist measurements, so don’t order your usual size without first checking the measurements extremely carefully.
Complete the Kit with a Tee and Some Boots
High-rise pairs can radically transform your style, but this doesn’t mean you need an entirely new wardrobe. They’ll pair brilliantly with a tucked-in loopwheeled tee and a pair of boots.
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I would add Tanuki’s high rise pairs to this list, for example their double indigo or some others fit very nicely for a modern straight fit.
Köszönöm szépen. When we update this list, we’ll look at what Tanuki offers in higher-rise fits.
I always thought Oni had good high rise jeans