High and Dry: The Best of High-Rise Selvedge Jeans

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Slimming and Stylish, High-Rise Jeans Can Radically Transform Your Selvedge Style

For the better part of two decades, low-slung pairs have dominated my collection. This changed when I finally bit the bullet and got a pair of generously cut, high-rise selvedge jeans from Ruttloff.

Suddenly, I was able to pair my jeans with dressier shirts, which only look right when tucked into high waistbands. But even with untucked looks, the pair was a revelation.

All of those shorter shirts that had languished at the back of my closet suddenly made perfect sense.

Short tees finally covered my belt, and I was finally able to unbutton the bottom button on all my vests.

Why High-Rise Jeans Make Sense for Most Body Types

Larger men have long understood the slimming properties of higher-rise pairs, but their benefits are not reserved for the portly.

The higher waistband neatly bisects the body into highly pleasing proportions, highlighting long and slim legs and shortening long torsos.

If, like me, you’ve found something that works for you in lower-rise pairs and stuck with it, you might find one of the pairs below a revelation.

At the very least, it’ll add a little bit of variety to your selvedge collection. 

Be aware that, because higher-rise pairs sit higher on the hips, this may affect your waist size. Read the measurement charts carefully and, to make sure you’re getting the right size, double-check your waist measurements with a measuring tape.

Visit our men’s jeans fit guide for more tips for buying jeans that fit you.


Warehouse 1001XX Banner Denim (13.5 oz.)

We’re leading off with the undisputed kings of clean, long-legged vintage cuts: Warehouse and Co. With immaculate craftsmanship and breathtaking denims, Warehouse pairs can be found in the collections of discerning denimheads worldwide.

The 1001XX is a stitch-perfect reproduction of the Levi’s 501 produced shortly after the end of WWII. The Banner Denim is a result of a literally microscopic analysis of a deadstock Levi’s banner from the period. It’s as close as you can come to the real thing without a time machine. 

A pair of these took home the bronze medal in Year Three of the Indigo Invitational, and they might be the best combination of vintage and contrast fading that we’ve ever seen in the competition. Why we don’t see more competitors wearing this brand is an enduring mystery.


TCB ‘50s Regular Straight (13.5 oz.)

One of the many TCB pairs that retailers can’t keep on their shelves, TCB’s generously cut ‘50s Regular Straight is the near-perfect three-way collision of comfort, style, and value. A bargain at any price, they fly out the door in a hurry everywhere they’re stocked.

The unfussy lightweight selvedge is designed to be used and abused. Wear it, wash it, even throw it in the dryer if you like (we don’t recommend this, but they do). They fade beautifully to a butter soft pair the colour of a cloudy sky on a summer’s day.

TCB’s ‘50s Regular Straight fit—faded to perfection by Ryo from TCB

Contrasts won’t come easy with this pair, but you can expect glorious all-over fades and roping at the chain-stitched hems. A great pair for those who want to get a lot without spending a lot.


Iron Heart 888S-19L (19 oz.)

The slimmest pair on this list, this will be a great choice for those with slimmer legs who don’t want to push the envelope with wider-legged fits.

Roomy in the top block, the pair tapers gently from the knee to the cuff. Stylish and highly adaptable, the cut flatters a wide range of body shapes. For bigger men, the ample top block and generously cut thighs will be a perfect mixture of style and comfort.

The 19 oz. ‘lefty’ denim is a fade beast—here’s James aka @luvthefades’ Type III jacket

Iron Heart offers the 888 in denim ranging from 14 oz. to 25 oz. Our favourite, the 19 oz. Left Hand Twill, is smack dab in the middle of this range. Thanks to its extremely tight weave, you can expect some leg twist as the pair ages—particularly in the right leg. 


Indigofera Kain (14 oz.)

This brand new fit from Sweden’s hometown heroes features a sky-high rise and a graceful straight leg that cries out to be paired with slip-on boots. Though it’s not the widest leg in the Indigofera line-up (that’d be the Kirk), it’s our favourite among their higher-rise offerings.

The neppy selvedge (milled in Japan, of course) is absolutely dripping with texture. Pair it with a tucked in tee for a classic 1950s vibe.

The denim is sanforized but unwashed. Wear them for at least a few months before washing them in cold water. They should return to the size they were when you bought them. 


Full Count 0105 (13.7 oz.)

One of the fits that made Full Count’s name synonymous with Japanese denim in the ‘90s, the 0105 was updated recently to give the wearer more room in the seat and thighs. The fit, renamed the 1953 Cut, is everything a generously cut high-rise pair should be.

The arcuates also disappeared in the update, which might not tickle your fancy if you’re a fan of embellished back pockets. For our money, though, the pared-down pairs are an improvement over the original.

The selvedge denim, woven in Japan, is made with Zimbabwe cotton. The lightweight denim is incredibly comfortable, but don’t let its softness fool you. It’s got a heart of iron and can definitely go the distance. 


Freenote Modesto (16 oz.)

The Modesto is a very recent addition for Freenote, and we think they’ve knocked this high-rise fit out of the park. Made in the United States from Japanese selvedge, the pair is an immaculate fusion of East and West.

The acorn-shaped back pockets definitely pull this pair decidedly towards the West. Stylish, vintage-inspired details like this are what helped put Freenote on the map, and they remain a top choice for those looking to stand out from the pack.

The 16 oz. selvedge has a slight green cast to it which will become more apparent as the jeans age. They produced this pair in extremely limited quantities, but we’re hoping it will become a full-fledged member of the Freenote family. 


Mister Freedom Californian Lot 64 (13 oz.)

Brought to you by the king of Southwest Americana, Christophe Loiron, the Californian Lot 64 are the result of the longstanding partnership between Japan’s Sugar Cane and California’s Mister Freedom.

With just a touch of taper, the jeans fall gracefully from waist down to the cuffs. With the brand’s trademark M’s on the pockets and a cowhide patch on the right pocket, they look as good going as they do coming.  

The denim, a blend of 70% cotton and 30% sugarcane fibres, features a reddish cast and a neppy face. Exceptionally hairy, it’s a treat for both the hands and the eyes.


Denime Lot 220XX 1947 Model (14.5 oz.)

The second-oldest member of the Osaka Five, Denime started producing faithful reproductions of vintage Levi’s pairs in the late ‘80s. The swelling enthusiasm for these reproductions helped but Japanese denim on the map in the ‘90s and ‘00s.

Warehouse and Co. now handle production for some of Denime’s most iconic products (including the 220XX), so this pair is made from a version of Warehouse’s iconic Banner Denim. The chief difference is the brown-tinted weft, which some prefer to white-wefted original.

A brilliant pair with an unimpeachable pedigree, a pair of these will get you deep nods of appreciation in the right circles.


Sugar Cane 1946 Model (13.5 oz.)

Another brilliant example of a Japanese brand going the extra mile to produce a truly authentic original, Sugar Cane’s 1946 model is the pet project of the brand’s director, Yuichi Fukutomi—an outpouring of his passion for vintage Americana.

They released two models, the 1943 and the 1946. The one we’ve featured here is the 1946, which reproduces some of the details from when Levi’s were first freed from the limitations imposed on them during wartime. The pair is a little rough around the edges, but this is the point.

We love pairs that tell a great story, and this one tells a story of the resilience of American manufacturing in the years immediately after WWII.


Studio D’Artisan SD-909 G3 (14 oz.)

Another brown-wefted beauty from an Osaka Five brand, Studio D’Artisan’s SD-909 features denim woven on the Toyoda G3 loom, the first selvedge loom produced in Japan. Only one mill in Japan still has operational Toyoda G3s, so this denim is as rare as it is beautiful. 

Thanks to its strong taper from the knee down, the SD-909 will be a great choice for those who want a high rise and a generous top block and thighs but don’t want to be swimming in wide cuffs. An excellent mixture of modern and traditional.

The denim is unsanforized and unwashed, so expect at least a full size of shrinkage with this pair. Read the measurement chart carefully. Like all unsanforized denims, we recommend that you soak the pair before wearing them.


Buzz Rickson’s WWII Waist Overalls (13.6 oz.)

Best known for their meticulous reproductions of Army, Navy, and Airforce classics, Buzz Rickson’s can go toe to toe with selvedge brands—particularly when it comes to perfectly authentic period pieces.

Another pair based on the jeans produced during WWII, when the American government imposed strict material-saving restrictions on manufacturers, the WWII Waist Overalls feature period-correct details like iron rivets (instead of the usual copper) and a rivetless coin pocket.  

There is some discrepancy between the tagged waist size and the waist measurements, so don’t order your usual size without first checking the measurements extremely carefully.


Complete the Kit with a Tee and Some Boots

High-rise pairs can radically transform your style, but this doesn’t mean you need an entirely new wardrobe. They’ll pair brilliantly with a tucked-in loopwheeled tee and a pair of boots.

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