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For the Ultimate Combination of Style and Substance, Look for the N1, Peacoat, and Duffel
Our long fascination with the sea might very well pre-date our mastery of fire. Even our shaggy ancestors, when standing stooped on the shore, must have wondered what lay beyond the horizon. This drove them to take to the sea, exploring the unknown world and returning with incredible tales about what they’d seen.
This quality has always leant sailors a certain aura that attracts our fascination. It’s no surprise that so much of the rugged wardrobe (from jeans to watch caps and nearly everything between) was worn first by the rugged men of the sea. They hold our fascination today just as they have always held it.
This is especially true of our foul-weather pieces. The deck jacket, the peacoat, and the duffel coat all saw extensive seaborne service before they made landfall in civilian style.
Starting in the nineteenth century and accelerating after WWII, naval outerwear has moved inland. Today, from sea to shining sea, the deck jacket, peacoat, and duffel together form the sturdy backbone of warm and weather-resistant casual outerwear.
Up Periscope!
If you have one (or two or three) of the classic naval coats on your list, your ship has come in! For each of the three iconic naval coats, we’ve listed our favourites below.
From budget-friendly brands like &Sons and Tellason to top-shelf reproduction specialists like Buzz Rickson’s and The Real McCoy’s, we’ve got you covered.
N1 Deck Jackets
The youngest piece on this list, the N1 deck jacket was developed for cold-weather sailors during WWII and saw extensive service in the North Atlantic.
Following the war, it became an attractive alternative to the leather jacket for motorcycle enthusiasts. Warm and robust, it pairs perfectly with heavy selvedge, allowing us to remain both dry and cozy with thinner under layers like tees, henleys, and sweatshirts.
It’s popular status in the scene is a reflection of its practical and stylish perfection.
Iron Heart Whipcord N1
Iron Heart’s version of the N1 has become intensely popular, and for very good reason. Designed for motorcycle riders, it pairs perfectly with heavy denim and leather boots.
The latest version (in a stunning 14 oz. oiled whipcord) has replaced the patch pockets with slash pockets (a huge improvement if you ask me).
Iron Heart offers a number of different versions of the N1, including striking black and brown versions. Before deciding on one, be sure to check them all, paying particular attention to slight variations like pocket style.
Buy Iron Heart from these select retailers: Iron Heart International, Franklin & Poe (US), Division Road (US), Corlection (AU), Brooklyn Clothing (CA).
Buzz Rickson’s Khaki N1
If, when you think of khaki, you think of uninteresting shades of beige that blend in with the environment, think again.
Buzz Rickson’s vivid khaki leaps out at you and grabs you by the lapels. If the colour doesn’t speak to you, the meticulous design and sewing perfection will.
After a long and exhaustive search for the perfect N1, this was the one I finally settled on, and I’ve been very happy with my choice.
Dehen1920 Waxed Sailcloth N1
Adding a touch of luxury to the rugged deck jacket, Dehen’s version of the N1 comes complete with a mouton lining and collar.
Made from sheepskin that has been cut and dyed to resemble beaver fur, it lends the jacket a soft and luxurious touch that must be experienced to be fully appreciated.
The price point reflects Dehen’s beautiful touches and their untouchable build quality. Be warned: if you try one of these on, you’ll be more likely to max the plastic than to put it back on the rack.
Real McCoy’s N1 Deck Jacket
Regarded by many as the gold standard for military reproductions, The Real McCoy’s go to the ends of the earth and back again in the search of authenticity. From the thread to the hardware, everything here is about as close to the real thing as you can get.
A fitting tribute to the war-winning classic, Real McCoy’s version of the N1 is tough as nails, and it will only get better with age.
Tellason Blubaugh N1 Deck Jacket
If the versions we’ve listed above are a little out of your price range, Tellason produce our favourite budget version of the deck jacket. With a black selvedge denim shell and a sherpa lining. With this jacket, you get a ton for not a lot of dough.
Our favourite feature is the deep left-side interior pocket, which they’ve borrowed from their iconic Coverall. Big enough to fit a bottle of wine, it makes this jacket a true carryall.
Peacoats
The peacoat has been a staple aboard seagoing vessels since at least the eighteenth century, when Dutch sailors pioneered the double-breasted design.
A true style chameleon, the midnight blue heavyweight can move effortlessly through a broad range of styles, adding a muscular touch to any outfit when worn with confidence.
Buzz Rickson’s 1910 Peacoat
We’re leading off with Buzz Rickson’s faithful tribute to the WWI peacoat, featuring slightly more length than the WWII versions.
Made from 36 oz. Melton wool, this jacket will lead to some serious overheating in warm climates. It’s worth really becomes apparent when the temperatures start to approach (or cross) the freezing point.
Though they’ve got stiff competition, Buzz Rickson’s lead the pack in this category. My own peacoat features a Buzz Rickson’s label, and I couldn’t be happier with my choice.
Anatomica Long Peacoat
With bargain basement versions available from big box retailers, the peacoat is perhaps the most popular piece of naval-inspired kit on the planet (unless you count jeans).
If you’re looking for something a little different that borrows some of the peacoat’s best features (particularly the iconic ulster collar) and that unbeatable heavy wool shell, this long coat from Anatomica might float your boat.
If the peacoat is a sailor’s best friend, this one is closer to the bridge coats worn by high-ranking Naval officers. Don’t be surprised if folks start standing at attention and saluting when you walk in the room.
Cockpit USA Admiral USN Peacoat
Made from 80% wool and 20% nylon, this 32 oz. version of the WWII peacoat has been updated by the tailors at Cockpit USA for a more modern audience. The result is a sleeker silhouette that makes it extremely adaptable. The purists might bristle at the modern cut, but, for everybody else, this is a great and more-affordable option. They also offer a a leather version.
Mister Freedom Denim Peacoat
If you, like us, frequently ask, “What if they made it of denim?”, Mister Freedom has your answer.
Fusing together the worlds of selvedge and naval style with grace and aplomb. A great choice for those who can dedicate the kind of time to this piece that will bring out its faded best (Gosling’s well-worn version demonstrates this nicely).
Our favourite feature is the plentiful use of corduroy in the lining and on the chin strap. A great complement to the Japanese selvedge.
Mister Freedom also offer a 14 oz. khaki jungle cloth version of the coat. We think it looks best in dark blue, but your tastes might pull you in a different direction.
&SONS Boardwalk Peacoat
Introduced as part of the brand’s first Kickstarter collection, the Boardwalk Peacoat is the most seaworthy piece at its price point. Made from 22 oz. Melton wool, it’s been designed with damp and dreary English winters in mind.
The polkadot lining and recycled metal buttons might not be period correct, but they make the coat unmistakable (and, for us, unsinkable).
Duffel Coats
Whether you spell it duffel or duffle (we prefer the former), the perpetually modern duffel is perfect in its simplicity.
No bells or whistles, just a heavy wool coat with toggles and a spacious hood that falls in a straight line down from the shoulders. When the breakers roar, the duffel will be your fail-proof foul-weather friend.
Gloverall Original Monty Duffel
The English glove maker turned into one of England’s most respected names in outerwear when they started manufacturing duffel coats in 1951.
In the ensuing decades, Gloverall’s duffels became associated with a host of youth-led subcultures that came to define the English scene. Still made in England, the Gloverall Duffel is as timeless as ever.
Gloverall covers a wide range of colours, but we’re partial to the classic colours of navy and beige.
Allevol “Pat” Navy Duffel
This Allevol duffel was modelled on a version of the coat that was provided for English postmen in the 1960s (the Pat in the name refers to your friendly neighbourhood Postman Pat).
Made from 32 oz. Melton wool woven in Japan and sewn in the UK, this duffel has a remarkable hand feel. With a detachable hood, it can move with ease through dry and wet spaces. It might just be the duffel perfected for a modern audience.
Allevol’s duffel is also available in Grey, White, and Olive.
Real McCoy’s Mouton Duffel
We’re closing out the list with a fitting showstopper. Vintage specialists Real McCoy’s have gone full steam ahead with this glorious sheepskin duffel. As warm as an arctic parka and easily three times as heavy, the Mouton Duffel isn’t in its element until you take it outside.
The Real McCoy’s also has a beautiful Camel Duffel.
Drop Anchor in Maritime Style
The duffel, peacoat, and N1 deck jacket all look their best when paired with pieces that share a naval lineage.
If you’re looking for the perfect piece to complement your naval outerwear, the best place to start is with a well-made sailor’s sweater. You can find our recommendations here.
