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For the Ultimate Combination of Style and Substance, Navy Knows Best
Our long fascination with the sea might very well pre-date our mastery of fire. Even our shaggy ancestors, when standing stooped on the shore, must have wondered what lay beyond the horizon. Their curiosity pushed them seaward. They explored the unknown world and returned with incredible tales about the lands, people, and sea monsters beyond the horizon.
This quality has always leant sailors a certain aura that attracts our fascination and emulation. It’s no surprise that so much of the rugged wardrobe (from jeans to watch caps and nearly everything between) was worn first by the rugged men of the sea.
This is especially true of our foul-weather pieces. The N1 deck jacket, the peacoat, and the duffel coat all saw extensive seaborne service before they made landfall in civilian style. Today, from sea to shining sea, these pieces together form the sturdy backbone of cold-weather rugged style.
Up Periscope!
If you’ve been scanning the horizon for a classic naval coat, your ship has come in! For each of the three rugged icons, we’ve listed our favourites below.
From budget-friendly brands like &Sons and Tellason to top-shelf reproduction specialists like Buzz Rickson’s and The Real McCoy’s, we’ve got you covered.
N1 Deck Jackets
The youngest piece on this list, the N1 deck jacket was developed for cold-weather sailors during WWII and saw extensive service in the North Atlantic.
Following the war, it became an attractive alternative to the leather jacket for motorcycle enthusiasts. Warm and robust, it pairs perfectly with heavy selvedge, allowing us to remain both dry and cozy with thinner under layers like tees, henleys, and sweatshirts.
It’s popular status in the scene is a reflection of its practical and stylish perfection.
Iron Heart Whipcord N1
Iron Heart’s version of the N1 has become intensely popular, and for very good reason. Designed for motorcycle riders, it pairs perfectly with heavy denim and leather boots.
The latest version (in a stunning 14 oz. oiled whipcord) has replaced the patch pockets with slash pockets (a huge improvement if you ask me).
Iron Heart offers a number of different versions of the N1, including new unlined versions that might be a better fit for more temperate climates. Before deciding on one, be sure to check them all, paying particular attention to slight variations like pocket style.
Iron Heart is available at: Division Road (US), Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Iron Provisions (US), and of course at Iron Heart International.
Buzz Rickson’s Khaki N1
If, when you think of khaki, you think of uninteresting shades of beige that blend in with the environment, think again. Buzz Rickson’s vivid khaki leaps out at you and grabs you by the lapels. Makes for a bold contrast with dark selvedge.
After a long and exhaustive search for the perfect N1, this was the one I finally settled on. A perfect match for my style and Norwegian winters, it’s replaced my parka on all but the coldest winter days.
Dehen Waxed Sailcloth N1
Adding a touch of luxury to the rugged deck jacket, Dehen’s version of the N1 comes complete with both lining and collar made from mouton (sheep fur trimmed and dyed to resemble beaver fur).This lends the jacket a soft and luxurious touch that must be experienced to be fully appreciated.
Dehen release new versions of this jacket every year. If this year’s crop of colours don’t suit you, next year’s might. Definitely one to have on your radar if you’re looking for a seriously stylish and rugged outerwear upgrade.
The price point reflects Dehen’s beautiful touches and their untouchable build quality. Be warned: if you try one of these on, you’ll be more likely to max the plastic than to put it back on the rack.
Real McCoy’s N1 Deck Jacket
Regarded by many as the gold standard for military reproductions, The Real McCoy’s go to the ends of the earth and back again in the search of authenticity. From the thread to the hardwares—everything combines to make this jacket about as close to the real thing as you can get.
A fitting tribute to the war-winning classic, Real McCoy’s version of the N1 is tough as nails, and it will only get better with age.
Tellason Blubaugh N1 Deck Jacket
If the versions we’ve listed above are a little out of your price range, Tellason produce our favourite budget version of the deck jacket. With a black selvedge denim shell and a sherpa lining. With this jacket, you get a ton of bang for buck (and fade potential to boot).
The jacket is also available in olive, which looks great but won’t fade like the selvedge one. Both jackets feature an insanely deep inside pocket (large enough to fit a bottle of wine).
Peacoats
The peacoat has been a staple aboard seagoing vessels since at least the eighteenth century, when Dutch sailors pioneered the double-breasted design.
A true style chameleon, the dark and heavy peacoat can move effortlessly through a broad range of styles, adding a muscular touch to any outfit when worn with confidence. For maximum effect, turn that collar up.
Buzz Rickson’s 1910 Peacoat
We’re leading off with Buzz Rickson’s faithful tribute to the WWI peacoat. Featuring slightly more length than the WWII versions, this 10-button midnight-blue beauty is the king of its class.
Made from 36 oz. Melton wool and lined with a combination of rayon and cotton, Buzz Rickson’s peacoat will cross the freezing point with ease. If the temperature keeps dropping, add a heavy wool roll neck to the equation.
Though they’ve got stiff competition, Buzz Rickson’s lead the pack in this category. I wear a Buzz Rickson’s peacoat, and I couldn’t be happier with my choice.
Anatomica Long Peacoat
Anatomica’s long peacoat is miles away from ordinary. The peacoat is one of the world’s most popular cold-weather jackets in the world, and, if you want your peacoat to stand out from the rest, you can’t do much better than this knee-length version.
Anatomica borrow some of the peacoat’s best features. The ulster collar, the large buttons, and that unbeatable heavy wool shell all work together brilliantly in this peacoat. If you’re looking to make a serious statement with your peacoat choice, Anatomica might float your boat.
If the peacoat is a sailor’s best friend, this one is closer to the bridge coats worn by high-ranking Naval officers. Don’t be surprised if folks start standing at attention and saluting when you walk in the room.
Cockpit USA Admiral USN Peacoat
Made from 80% wool and 20% nylon, this 32 oz. version of the WWII peacoat has been updated by the tailors at Cockpit USA for a more modern audience. The result is a sleeker silhouette that makes it stylishly adaptable.
The purists might bristle at the blended shell and the modern cut (which limits your layering options). For everybody else, though, this is a great and affordable option.
Cockpit USA also offer a a leather version of their peacoat, but the coat just doesn’t look right in anything other than wool. Might be a good choice if you love naval style but you’re allergic to wool.
Mister Freedom Denim Peacoat
If, like us, you frequently ask, “What if they made it of denim?”, Mister Freedom has your answer.
Fusing together the worlds of selvedge and naval style with grace and aplomb, Mister Freedom have reinvented the peacoat that is perfect for denimheads. Best for those who can dedicate the kind of time to this piece that will bring out its faded best (Gosling’s well-worn version demonstrates this nicely).
Our favourite feature is the plentiful use of corduroy in the lining and on the chin strap. A great complement to the Japanese selvedge.
Mister Freedom also offer a 14 oz. khaki jungle cloth version of the coat. We think it looks best in dark blue, but your tastes might pull you in a different direction.
&SONS Boardwalk Peacoat
Introduced as part of the brand’s first Kickstarter collection, the Boardwalk Peacoat is the most seaworthy piece at its price point. Made from 22 oz. Melton wool, it’s been designed with damp and dreary English winters in mind.
The polkadot lining and recycled metal buttons might not be period correct, but they make the coat unmistakable (and, for us, unsinkable).
Duffel Coats
Whether you spell it duffel or duffle (we prefer the former), the perpetually modern duffel is perfect in its simplicity. Good enough for a friendly bear from Darkest Peru, the classic duffel is definitely good enough for us (and likely you as well).
No bells or whistles, just a heavy wool coat with toggles and a spacious hood. the duffel falls in a straight line down from the shoulders, leaving plenty of room to play and layer. When the breakers roar, the duffel will be your fail-proof foul-weather friend.
Gloverall x J. Press Duffel
The English glove maker turned into one of England’s most respected names in outerwear when they started manufacturing duffel coats in 1951. In the ensuing decades, Gloverall’s duffels became associated with a host of youth-led subcultures that came to define the English scene.
This collaboration with ivy-style legends J. Press adds a handsome tartan lining into the mix, keeping classic features like the buffalo horn toggles intact. Still made in England, Gloverall’s duffels are as timeless as ever.
The plaid versions certainly strike the eye, but you simply can’t go wrong with solid colours. Our favourites are the Navy, Camel, and Loden.
Allevol “Pat” Navy Duffel
This Allevol duffel was modelled on a version of the coat that was provided for English postmen in the 1960s (the Pat in the name refers to your friendly neighbourhood Postman Pat).
Made from 32 oz. Melton wool woven in Japan and sewn in the UK, this duffel has a remarkable hand feel. With a detachable hood, it can move with ease through dry and wet spaces. This is the duffel coat perfected for the modern, savvy, and stylish man.
Allevol’s duffel is also available in Grey, White, and Olive.
Real McCoy’s Mouton Duffel
We’re closing out the list with a true showstopper. Vintage specialists Real McCoy’s have gone full steam ahead with this glorious sheepskin duffel. As warm as an arctic parka and easily three times as heavy, the Mouton Duffel is the warmest coat on this list by a wide margin.
This one won’t be in its element until you take it outdoors. Far too warm for indoor spaces, this one’s perfect for folks who want to make the most of the cold weather.
Drop Anchor in Maritime Style
The duffel, peacoat, and N1 deck jacket all look their best when paired with pieces that share a naval lineage.
If you’re looking for the perfect piece to complement your naval outerwear, the best place to start is with a well-made sailor’s sweater. You can find our recommendations here.
