Exploring Nudie’s Jeans Fits and Japanese Selvedge Denims

Guide to the Best Jeans Fits from Nudie in Japanese Selvedge and Raw Denim

Nudie Jeans Co., often simply referred to as Nudie, was founded in 2001 with a focus on raw, or as they call it, “dry” denim. Starting with a single pair of selvedge jeans, they quickly gained a cult following for their commitment to Japanese selvedge and raw denim.

For over two decades, Nudie has been an innovator in denim while maintaining a strong focus on quality and sustainability, with selvedge denim still central to their collection.

Like so many denimheads that also “came of age” in the late 2000s, Nudie was a gateway brand for me. My most cherished pair is an Average Joe, made from the original Kaihara selvedge. I wore them daily for about five months without an initial soak, leading to distinctive ‘scars’ and breaks after the first wash—a learning experience that challenged the common wait-6-months-before-you-wash approach.

This profile explores the current top picks of Nudie’s jeans fits and their selection of Japanese selvedge denim.

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NUDIE’S JEANS FITS

Choosing the right jeans fit is key to looking and feeling your best. Nudie offers a wide range of fits to match various body types and preferences.

With a commitment to innovation, they regularly introduce new fits to keep up with evolving denim styles. In this section, I guide you through Nudie’s current fits, helping you find the perfect pair for your shape and style.

Check out my Jeans Fit Guide for Men for more fit-finding guidance.

Grim Tim: Slim Straight

Introduced way back in 2007, Grim Tim is the oldest Nudie fit still in production. It’s a slim fit with a straight leg and low waist, made exclusively in stretch denim. This fit features a button fly and provides a contemporary yet classic look, ideal for various styles.

The Grim Tim is particularly well-suited for those with a slim to average build. Its slim fit contours well to lean frames, and the stretch fabric provides comfort and flexibility, accommodating subtle variations in body shape.

Key Features:

• Slim Fit: Close-fitting yet comfortable.
• Straight Leg: Balanced silhouette.
• Low Waist: Sits just above the hips.
• Button Fly: Classic closure.
• Stretch Denim: Adds comfort and flex.

Lean Dean: Slim Tapered

Lean Dean is Nudie’s most successful slim tapered fit, with a modern silhouette that tapers from the knee down. It has a mid waist and a zip fly, and is consistently offered in stretch denim for added comfort.

Lean Dean is perfect for those with a slim to athletic build. The tapered leg creates a sleek profile, making it flattering for those who prefer a fitted look without being too tight around the thighs and hips.

Key Features:

• Slim Fit: Tailored and contemporary.
• Tapered Leg: Narrows from the knee to the hem.
• Mid Waist: Sits comfortably around the natural waistline.
• Zip Fly: Sleeker profiler.
• Stretch Denim: Provides flexibility and comfort.

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Gritty Jackson: Slim Regular Straight

Gritty Jackson is the heir to the popular Average Joe, offering a regular fit with a slim straight leg. It features a mid waist and a zip fly, which for some—including myself—might be a dealbreaker compared to the button fly of its predecessor.

Gritty Jackson suits individuals with an average build well. The regular fit provides comfort around the hips and thighs, while the slim straight leg creates a clean, modern silhouette suitable for various body types, styles, and footwear preferences.

Key Features:

• Regular Fit: Comfortable around the hips and thighs.
• Slim Straight Leg: Offers a sleek, contemporary silhouette.
• Mid Waist: Sits naturally around the waist.
• Zip Fly: A modern closure instead of the traditional button fly.

Steady Eddie II: Regular Tapered

The original Steady Eddie was introduced in 2011. It was a regular fit with a tapered leg, a mid waist and a button fly. In 2018, Nudie updated the fit and changed the name to Steady Eddie II, giving it more room in the seat. These changes give it a sharp look and add more comfort.

Steady Eddie II fits best on those with an average to athletic build. The roomy upper leg and strong taper are ideal for individuals who need more space around the thighs and hips but prefer a narrower leg opening, balancing comfort and a contemporary appearance. This also makes it my top recommendation for bigger guys.

Key Features:

• Regular Fit: Roomy in the upper leg.
• Tapered Leg: Strong taper from the knee to the hem.
• Mid Waist: Sits comfortably around the natural waistline.
• Button Fly: Traditional closure.

Rad Rufus: Roomy Regular, Straight Leg

Rad Rufus offers a regular fit with a high waist for that classic blue jeans silhouette. Keeping things real, it has a button fly, adding to its traditional appeal.

Rad Rufus is tailored for those with an average to athletic build who appreciate more coverage and support around the waist. However, it’s not recommended for bigger guys as the high waist can accentuate the belly and create a “muffin top” effect. For those with a straighter figure, the high waist provides a secure and flattering fit.

Key Features:

• Regular Fit: Comfortable around the hips and thighs.
• High Waist: Sits just below the natural waistline, providing more coverage.
• Button Fly: Classic closure that adds to the traditional denim feel.

Tuff Tony: Loose Fit, Straight Leg 

Tuff Tony is Nudie’s offering to those who enjoy a looser fit, whether that’s for the feel or look. It brings a relaxed vibe with a loose fit and high waist, offering a roomy silhouette that is very much in fashion right now. And as it should be for loose-fitting jeans, Tuff Tony comes with a button fly.

Tuff Tony is designed for those with an average to athletic build. Its generous fit around the legs and hips offers a roomy silhouette, but like with Rad Rufus, it may not be ideal for those with a larger midsection, as the high waist can highlight the belly.

Key Features:

• Loose Fit: Provides a roomy, comfortable feel.
• High Waist: Sits above the natural waistline, best suited for those with a straighter figure.
• Button Fly: Traditional closure for a classic look.

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NUDIE’S JAPANESE SELVEDGE DENIMS

Nudie’s Japanese selvedge denims marry traditional craftsmanship with modern sustainability, using 100% organic cotton exclusively.

These jeans start raw and rugged, featuring a tightly woven selvedge edge—a hallmark of shuttle loom weaving that results in a clean, self-finished edge.

Whether you’re just getting into raw denim or are a seasoned fan, Nudie’s range of Japanese selvedge denims brings a distinct character to your denim journey.

Dry Selvage: 13.75 oz. (Kaihara)

This is the OG denim for Nudie; a selvedge that’s been a cornerstone since the brand’s launch in 2001. The story of this denim started in 2000 when Nudie founder, Maria Erixon—then working for Lee Europe—encountered a fabric sample at a fabric week in Brussels. 

This sample, from Kaihara in Japan, captured her attention immediately. Although the denim was too expensive for Lee at the time, Maria brought it home as a cherished souvenir. This little piece of denim inspired her to make it the foundation of Nudie when she founded the brand in 2001.

The 13.75 oz. denim is tightly woven and features a rugged yet relatively clean texture, thanks to its slubby yarns—adding a slightly uneven, authentic feel. Initially featuring a red selvedge ID, it was changed to orange in 2011, becoming a unique signature for Nudie. Like all Nudie’s denims, the cotton is 100% organic. 

Key Features:

• Weight: 13.75 oz.
• Yarns: Slubby, giving a slightly uneven and authentic texture
• Selvedge ID: Orange (changed from red in 2011)
• Composition: 100% organic cotton (since 2012)
• Source: Kaihara in Hiroshima, Japan

Dry Ace: 14 oz. (Shinya)

Dry Ace is a 14 oz. denim woven by the renowned Shinya Mills. Based in Japan, Shinya has a storied reputation for its meticulous craftsmanship and innovative approach to denim weaving. Their expertise shines through in this fabric, which is a faithful nod to denim’s golden era.

The story of Dry Ace began with a deep dive into the past. Shinya Mills meticulously analysed a pair of well-worn jeans from the 1950s, replicating its unique qualities. During the 40s and 50s, limited yarn-spinning technology resulted in uneven, slubby yarns, which Shinya has masterfully recreated in Dry Ace. 

This denim might seem a bit rustic at first glance, with its chunky and rugged texture, but that’s part of its charm. It starts out raw and a bit rough around the edges, but as you wear and wash it, Dry Ace transforms, revealing a beautiful salt-and-pepper texture that’s both distinctive and timeless. 

This 100% organic cotton denim undergoes 20 dips in pure indigo, resulting in a rich, redcast hue that celebrates the imperfections of traditional denim. 

Key Features:

• Weight: 14 oz.
• Yarns: Uneven, slubby texture inspired by vintage denim
• Colour: Redcast, achieved through 20 dips in pure indigo
• Composition: 100% organic cotton
• Source: Shinya Mills, Japan

Dry Ace is also available in the Jonas Shirt.

Snake Eyes: 13 oz. (Shinya)

Snake Eyes is a marbled marvel, brought to life by Shinya Mills in Kojima, Japan. This 13 oz. red cast denim is the result of meticulous research and unchallenged expertise in denim craftsmanship. The fabric is woven on old shuttle looms, where the unique tension and yarn-spinning methods give it its distinctive texture.

Snake Eyes features a complex marbled appearance, thanks to its irregular weft yarns and the inherent tension of the shuttle loom weaving process. As you wear and wash this denim, it reveals a dynamic red cast that deepens into a rich blue hue, alongside a striking marbling effect. This results in a fabric that not only evolves beautifully over time but also mimics the intricate textures seen in the finest vintage jeans.

Key Features:

• Weight: 13 oz.
• Yarns: Irregular thickness, contributing to a complex marbled texture
• Colour: Red cast, evolving into a rich blue with marbling and salt-and-pepper graininess
• Composition: 100% organic cotton
• Source: Shinya Mills in Kojima, Japan

Dry Ruby: 14.6 oz. (Kuroki)

Dry Ruby is a gem in Nudie’s denim line-up (pun intended.). Dyed with natural indigo, it’s made by the esteemed Kuroki Mill in Okayama, Japan. Both the warp and weft are ring-spun to create irregular thickness, giving the fabric its distinct “perfectly imperfect” texture.

As you wear and wash this denim, you’ll witness a transformation. The irregular yarns start to pucker, and the indigo slowly fades to reveal a brilliant blue tone.

Areas exposed to abrasion develop a beautiful, grainy salt-and-pepper effect, showcasing the craftsmanship of old shuttle looms. The denim evolves with a balanced combination of vertical streakiness and a crosshatch effect, creating a visually stunning contrast between the indigo and the texture.

Key Features:

• Weight: 14.6 oz.
• Yarns: Irregular thickness for a distinct texture
• Colour: Natural indigo-dyed, fading to a brilliant blue with grainy salt-and-pepper effects
• Selvedge ID: Elegant all-white
• Composition: 100% organic cotton
• Source: Kuroki Mill in Okayama, Japan

Dry Heavy Selvage: 17 oz. (Yoshiwa)

Dry Heavy Selvage is the heaviest denim in Nudie’s lineup, weighing in at a substantial 17 oz. It’s woven by Yoshiwa in Okayama and stands as a testament to the pinnacle of Japanese craftsmanship.

The fabric’s distinct stiffness, coupled with notably slubby yarns, creates a highly visual and tactile experience. As you wear and wash it, Dry Heavy Selvage develops pronounced twill lines and a grainy surface, showcasing beautiful marbling and puckering effects that tell the story of its journey.

Key Features:

• Weight: 17 oz.
• Yarns: Coarse, slubby texture replicating early 20th-century workwear
• Colour: Deep pure indigo with undyed core, aging to show pronounced twill lines and marbling
• Selvedge ID: Red
• Composition: 100% organic cotton
• Source: Yoshiwa in Okayama, Japan

Fukuyama (Stretch) Selvage: 12.5 oz. (Kurabo)

This 12.5 oz. orange-line selvedge is a stellar example of Japan’s ability to blend tradition with innovation. Dipped 12 times in pure indigo and meticulously woven on vintage shuttle looms, this fabric may seem unassuming at first glance, but it’s anything but ordinary.

True to its historical roots, this denim features a rustic texture with long, irregular yarn slubs and a deep indigo tone. As the denim wears and ages, the slubs create unique vertical streakiness and a distinctive salt-and-pepper grain.

What really sets the Fukuyama Selvage apart is the fact that it’s made with stretch, a challenging addition to replicate in such rustic denim. Kurabo has masterfully spun stretch into this yarn, maintaining the denim’s traditional aesthetics while offering modern comfort and flexibility.

Key Features:

• Weight: 12.5 oz.
• Yarns: Long, irregular slubs contributing to a rustic texture
• Colour: Deep pure indigo, aged to reveal white core highlights and vertical streakiness
• Selvedge ID: Orange-line
• Composition: 99% organic cotton, 1% elastane
• Source: Woven by Kurabo Mills on vintage shuttle looms in Fukuyama, Japan

Find the Perfect Fit: Subscribe for More Guides

Discovering the best Nudie jeans and their unique Japanese selvedge denims is just the beginning. From slim fits to rugged classics, Nudie offers something for every style and body type. Continue exploring the world of premium denim and stay updated on the latest guides.

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