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Those Who Have Tried It Know: When it Comes to Knitwear, Heimat Are in a Category of Their Own
It’s a familiar story. For many of us, the discovery of well-made menswear is a turning point in our lives. My first Heimat sweater was one of these turning points. Immediately, it was clear that the dresserful of sweaters I had purchased as a younger man were only a poor imitation of the real thing.
What I know now (that I wish I had learned earlier) is that there is knitwear, and then there is well-made knitwear, with brands like Heimat leading the way. Christian Hofmann, who started the brand in 2016, after his education in fashion management, cut his teeth in the industry with Ralph Lauren. He says that his 11 years there were like a second education.
He saw that customers were willing to invest more deeply in those rare pieces that were steeped in history. When our clothes, down to the smallest details, tell a rich story about the forces that long ago shaped them, that story resonates. We don’t just look the part; we play a part in the age-old story that weaves together style and substance.
The first Heimat product was a knit beanie with a single fold, which Christian called the Trawler Hat. He had been looking for a simple and classic 100% wool beanie to wear, but all he could find were nylon blends or floppy hats made from shaggy lambswool prone to pilling.
Closer in spirit to the hats worn by North Atlantic fishermen, the 100% wool Trawler Hat is exceptionally warm, and rather than flopping down around the ears, it hugs the head. It is more practical, authentic, and stylish than the alternatives. It was exactly what Christian had been looking for, and it turned out that he wasn’t the only one.
Retailers and customers couldn’t get enough of them, and they were clearly hungry for more knitwear produced with the same kind of heritage spirit. They expanded their line slowly, piece by piece, testing each new piece extensively before introducing it to their customers.
All of their knitwear is still made in Germany in a small workshop. There’s not exactly a bottomless pool of expert knitters in Germany, so scaling production is extremely difficult. Christian would rather produce less than the market wants than stray from Heimat’s original recipe.
He’s expanded Heimat’s line to include shirts, jackets, and trousers, all produced either in England (in partnership with Black Horse Lane Ateliers) or in Portugal. Christian chooses his manufacturing partners extremely carefully and he’s seen proof in London and Lisbon that he’s chosen partners who share his passion for sustainability and quality manufacturing. (You can see all Heimat’s stockists here.)
There may soon be a Heimat store where all of their products can be experienced first-hand, but until then, you can find Heimat at some of our favourite well-made goods stockists like Franklin & Poe, Clutch Café, Burg & Schild, and Brund.
To help you narrow down your search, here’s a short list of some of the well-made essentials in the Heimat line-up.
Heimat Essential #1: The Mechanics Hat
It’s no secret that we’re big fans of the rugged and casual style pioneered by American sailors in WWII. What topped off their look was the standard-issue USN watch cap, which has been lovingly recreated here by Heimat in a range of 13 colours. We’re partial to the Rescue Orange, but you should also check out the indigo-adjacent Trail Blue.
The five-gauge knit makes the hat chunky and exceptionally warm. The knit is loose enough that the hat breathes nicely. It’ll be a little too warm to wear for long periods indoors, but outdoors, you’re always in that sweet spot of warmth and comfort.
If the wide roll isn’t your thing, check out the shorter Deck Hat, which is also available in the same wide range of colours.
Heimat Essential #2: U Boat Roll Neck
If you care as deeply about great jeans as we do, this sweater should be at the top of your list. The creamy eggshell tone and the heavy knit complement serious selvedge perfectly (especially when that selvedge has been faded to perfection).
Made from a full kilo of virgin wool, it gives you a firm yet gentle hug at the neck, waist, and cuffs. It’s as warm as it is stylish, so in cool climates, it can replace a jacket. In cold ones, combine it with a peacoat to create a truly weather-proof combo.
Like great jeans, Heimat’s sweaters are designed to go for ages between washes. Natural oils in the yarns make it water-resistant, but they also make this something of a self-cleaning garment. Of course, this applies more to sweat than marinara, so, if you’re a messy eater, the Ink Roll Neck will probably be a better choice.
Heimat Essential #3: Arbeitshemd Chambray
Translating to “work shirt”, the Arbeitshemd is a classic work shirt with a gently curved hem that looks just as good untucked as it does tucked. The true go-anywhere-do-anything shirt, it’s every bit as versatile as a great pair of selvedge jeans.
Pay particular attention to the raglan sleeve construction, which makes this chambray stand apart from the pack. Rather than terminating at the shoulder, the sleeve extends all the way to the neck line. This follows the line of the shoulders more naturally, allowing for an exceptionally smooth range of motion.
Our favourite detail, though, is the neat rows of stitching underneath the collar (you’ll find the same thing at the cuffs). Even as the shirt matures into that chambray softness we’re all familiar with, the collar and cuffs don’t go floppy on you. Like sailors on deck, they’ll stand at attention, saluting all the while.
Available in four colours (one solid and three patterned), the Arbeitshemd is at its most classic in the Trail Blue, but the Ink/Seashell Stripe is definitely worth a look.
Heimat Essential #4: Journey Coat
The result of a collaboration between Heimat and London’s Black Horse Lane Ateliers, the Journey Coat reveals its purpose in its name. A combination of the German army field shirt and the traditional chore coat, It’s designed for travellers who want to have everything they need close at hand.
With three capacious pockets on the outside and two smaller ones on the inside, you’ll probably be able to forego the bag. Just fill your pockets and hit the road. Like the chambray shirt, it’s got the reinforcing stitching under the collar and the raglan sleeves, making the Arbeidshemd and the Journey Coat a natural fit for each other.
We’re fondest of the UK-made version made from 10 oz. washed denim, but there are other options to consider. The non-denim versions, made in Portugal from your choice of herringbone cotton, waxed cotton, or unwaxed canvas, feature a slightly different pocket configuration, but the jacket’s essential features are there in all its versions.
Heimat Essential #5: Journey Pants
If your journeys regularly see you ranging over mountain, field, and stream, you probably know that denim isn’t always the best choice in the great outdoors. If you’re looking for something a little more lightweight, versatile, and adventure-ready, these herringbone cotton trousers will be a great choice.
With a button fly, a single back pocket with a button closure, and angled hip pockets, the Journey Pants will be equally at home in the city or the mountains. They’re roomy but stylish and tough but soft. Wherever your journey takes you, you’ll fit right in.
The herringbone Journey Pants are only available in one regular fit, but they come in four colours: Ink (dark blue), Military Green, Seashell (cream), and Desert (tan). They’re also available in corduroy, with the Ink colour swapped out for a handsome burgundy.
See What Else Heimat Has in Store
We’ve only just scratched the surface of what Heimat has in store for you. They’ve got a wide range of wool sweaters, cardigans, and beanies. You can find their complete line on their website.
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