The Fifteenth Episode of The Denim & Boots Podcast
You’ve probably heard it: “Never wash your jeans.” Or maybe “Only after 6 months.” But those rules—still repeated in shops and Reddit threads—leave out half the story.
In this episode of the Denim & Boots Podcast, Jake and I unpack what we’ve learned from years of experimenting with raw denim care. We talk about the trade-offs, the mistakes we’ve made, and why I now believe you should wash raw denim—just not like your mum would.
It’s one of those topics that always sparks debate. How often should you wash? What happens when you never do? And why do so many guys still get told to never wash their jeans?
Jake and I don’t always do things the same way—but we’ve both experimented a lot. In this episode, we break down our methods, explain why we do what we do, and share some of the mistakes we’ve learned from along the way.
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Key Takeaways
- There’s no single “correct” way to wash raw denim—but your choices have consequences.
- Frequent washing = softer fades, cleaner jeans, more durability.
- Infrequent washing = sharper fades, but more risk of breakage (especially at creases).
- Raw denim must be treated differently from washed or stretch denim.
- Shrink-to-fit jeans require soaking before wear—ideally more than once.
- Sanforized jeans don’t shrink much, but a pre-wear soak can still help with longevity.
- Add vinegar if you want to fix the dye and kill odour naturally.
What We Talk About in the Episode
- Myths that confuse people (like “never wash your jeans”)
- How different washing habits affect fading and fabric strength
- Our go-to methods for hand-washing and machine-washing
- Why I always soak before I wear a new pair
- Why Jake washes infrequently and prefers to keep his jeans dark
Where the “Never Wash” Rule Came From
In the early 2000s, raw denim made a comeback. And with it came a new kind of folklore: don’t wash your jeans for 6 months. Or 12. Or ever.
It was part of the mystique. The idea was simple: if you avoided washing, you’d get dramatic fades. And for many, it worked—especially if you wore your jeans hard.
But here’s what was often left out: the trade-off.
When you don’t wash raw denim, it doesn’t just fade faster. It also breaks faster. The fabric gets brittle. Creases set in so sharply that they eventually snap. And you end up with more repairs, more crotch blowouts, and sometimes jeans that don’t fit anymore.
That’s exactly what happened to me with a pair of Nudie Average Joes back in the day. The fades looked great. But the honeycombs cracked.
Thomas
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What Actually Happens When You Don’t Wash
- Indigo loss slows down, so your fades stay sharp.
- But sweat, body oils and dirt grind into the fabric.
- Unwashed denim becomes brittle, especially around stress points.
- Deep creases can lead to fibre breakage.
That’s why I always soak my raw jeans before I wear them. Even if they’re sanforized. It removes the starch and softens the fabric. That makes them last longer.
Related: My Complete Guide to Washing Jeans
My Washing Routine Today
- Before wear: I soak (even sanforized jeans). No detergent. Just warm water.
- After wear: I wash when dirty, not on a fixed schedule. Usually every 2–3 months.
- How I wash: If the jeans are very dirty, I use the machine. Otherwise, I hand wash.
Soaking helps extend the life of the jeans. Hand washing helps control the fade. Machine washing is faster, but I only use it on gentle settings.
Want to try it yourself?
Know Your Denim Before You Wash
Before you decide how to wash, you need to know what kind of denim you’re dealing with:
| Type | Wash Strategy | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Unsanforized | Soak before wear | Shrinks up to 10% |
| One-Wash | Optional soak | Already shrunk once |
| Sanforized | Optional soak | Minimal shrinkage |
| Black Denim | Avoid washing | Sulphur dyes fade fast |
| Prewashed | Machine wash is fine | Already faded/shrunk |
It’s Not Just About Hygiene
This is where it gets personal. For most denimheads, washing isn’t just about keeping jeans clean. It’s about the look. The fades. The shape. The story your jeans tell.
But too often, care advice skips over the most important part:
What do you want from your jeans?
- If it’s high-contrast fades, you’ll want to wash less often.
- If it’s longevity and softness, wash more.
- If it’s somewhere in between, find the rhythm that works for you.
From the Podcast to Your Closet
Episode 15 of the Denim & Boots Podcast was all about this. I talk too much in it—because this is one of those topics I care deeply about.
Listen here or on your podcast app of choice. But more importantly: start experimenting. Don’t just follow rules. Find what works for you.
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Hey, it’s Thomas here, founder of Denimhunters. I send weekly emails with buying tips, denim knowledge, and practical style advice for guys who care about what they wear.
